[Wednesday, 31st May]
The landing-master's bell, often no very favourite sound, rung at
six this morning; but on this occasion, it is believed, it was
gladly received by all on board, as the welcome signal of the
return of better weather. The masons laid thirteen stones to-day,
which the seamen had landed, together with other building
materials. During these twenty-four hours the wind was from the
south, blowing fresh breezes, accompanied with showers of snow. In
the morning the snow showers were so thick that it was with
difficulty the landing-master, who always steered the leading boat,
could make his way to the rock through the drift. But at the Bell
Rock neither snow nor rain, nor fog nor wind, retarded the progress
of the work, if unaccompanied by a heavy swell or breach of the
sea.
The weather during the months of April and May had been uncommonly
boisterous, and so cold that the thermometer seldom exceeded 40
degrees, while the barometer was generally about 29.50. We had not
only hail and sleet, but the snow on the last day of May lay on the
decks and rigging of the ship to the depth of about three inches;
and, although now entering upon the month of June, the length of
the day was the chief indication of summer. Yet such is the effect
of habit, and such was the expertness of the landing-master's crew,
that, even in this description of weather, seldom a tide's work was
lost. Such was the ardour and zeal of the heads of the several
departments at the rock, including Mr. Peter Logan, foreman
builder, Mr. Francis Watt, foreman millwright, and Captain Wilson,
landing-master, that it was on no occasion necessary to address
them, excepting in the way of precaution or restraint. Under these
circumstances, however, the writer not unfrequently felt
considerable anxiety, of which this day's experience will afford an
example.
[Thursday, 1st June]
This morning, at a quarter-past eight, the artificers were landed
as usual, and, after three hours and three-quarters' work, five
stones were laid, the greater part of this tide having been taken
up in completing the boring and trenailing of the stones formerly
laid. At noon the writer, with the seamen and artificers,
proceeded to the tender, leaving on the beacon the joiners, and
several of those who were troubled with sea-sickness--among whom
was Mr. Logan, who remained with Mr. Watt--counting altogether
eleven persons. During the first and middle parts of these twenty-
four hours the wind was from the east, blowing what the seamen term
'fresh breezes'; but in the afternoon it shifted to E.N.E.,
accompanied with so heavy a swell of sea that the Smeaton and
tender struck their topmasts, launched in their bolt-sprits, and
'made all snug' for a gale. At four p.m. the Smeaton was obliged
to slip her moorings, and passed the tender, drifting before the
wind, with only the foresail set. In passing, Mr. Pool hailed that
he must run for the Firth of Forth to prevent the vessel from
'riding under.'
On board of the tender the writer's chief concern was about the
eleven men left upon the beacon. Directions were accordingly given
that everything about the vessel should be put in the best possible
state, to present as little resistance to the wind as possible,
that she might have the better chance of riding out the gale.
Among these preparations the best bower cable was bent, so as to
have a second anchor in readiness in case the mooring-hawser should
give way, that every means might be used for keeping the vessel
within sight of the prisoners on the beacon, and thereby keep them
in as good spirits as possible. From the same motive the boats
were kept afloat that they might be less in fear of the vessel
leaving her station. The landing-master had, however, repeatedly
expressed his anxiety for the safety of the boats, and wished much
to have them hoisted on board. At seven p.m. one of the boats, as
he feared, was unluckily filled with sea from a wave breaking into
her, and it was with great difficulty that she could be baled out
and got on board, with the loss of her oars, rudder, and loose
thwarts. Such was the motion of the ship that in taking this boat
on board her gunwale was stove in, and she otherwise received
considerable damage. Night approached, but it was still found
quite impossible to go near the rock. Consulting, therefore, the
safety of the second boat, she also was hoisted on board of the
tender.
At this time the cabins of the beacon were only partially covered,
and had neither been provided with bedding nor a proper fireplace,
while the stock of provisions was but slender. In these
uncomfortable circumstances the people on the beacon were left for
the night, nor was the situation of those on board of the tender
much better. The rolling and pitching motion of the ship was
excessive; and, excepting to those who had been accustomed to a
residence in the floating light, it seemed quite intolerable.
Nothing was heard but the hissing of the winds and the creaking of
the bulkheads or partitions of the ship; the night was, therefore,
spent in the most unpleasant reflections upon the condition of the
people on the beacon, especially in the prospect of the tender
being driven from her moorings. But, even in such a case, it
afforded some consolation that the stability of the fabric was
never doubted, and that the boats of the floating light were at no
great distance, and ready to render the people on the rock the
earliest assistance which the weather would permit. The writer's
cabin being in the sternmost part of the ship, which had what
sailors term a good entry, or was sharp built, the sea, as before
noticed, struck her counter with so much violence that the water,
with a rushing noise, continually forced its way up the rudder-
case, lifted the valve of the water-closet, and overran the cabin
floor. In these circumstances daylight was eagerly looked for, and
hailed with delight, as well by those afloat as by the artificers
upon the rock.
[Friday, 2nd June]
In the course of the night the writer held repeated conversations
with the officer on watch, who reported that the weather continued
much in the same state, and that the barometer still indicated
29.20 inches. At six a.m. the landing-master considered the
weather to have somewhat moderated; and, from certain appearances
of the sky, he was of opinion that a change for the better would
soon take place. He accordingly proposed to attempt a landing at
low-water, and either get the people off the rock, or at least
ascertain what state they were in. At nine a.m. he left the vessel
with a boat well manned, carrying with him a supply of cooked
provisions and a tea-kettle full of mulled port wine for the people
on the beacon, who had not had any regular diet for about thirty
hours, while they were exposed during that period, in a great
measure, both to the winds and the sprays of the sea. The boat
having succeeded in landing, she returned at eleven a.m. with the
artificers, who had got off with considerable difficulty, and who
were heartily welcomed by all on board.
Upon inquiry it appeared that three of the stones last laid upon
the building had been partially lifted from their beds by the force
of the sea, and were now held only by the trenails, and that the
cast-iron sheer-crane had again been thrown down and completely
broken. With regard to the beacon, the sea at high-water had
lifted part of the mortar gallery or lowest floor, and washed away
all the lime-casks and other movable articles from it; but the
principal parts of this fabric had sustained no damage. On
pressing Messrs. Logan and Watt on the situation of things in the
course of the night, Mr. Logan emphatically said: 'That the beacon
had an ILL-FAURED {171a} TWIST when the sea broke upon it at high-
water, but that they were not very apprehensive of danger.' On
inquiring as to how they spent the night, it appeared that they had
made shift to keep a small fire burning, and by means of some old
sails defended themselves pretty well from the sea sprays.
It was particularly mentioned that by the exertions of James Glen,
one of the joiners, a number of articles were saved from being
washed off the mortar gallery. Glen was also very useful in
keeping up the spirits of the forlorn party. In the early part of
life he had undergone many curious adventures at sea, which he now
recounted somewhat after the manner of the tales of the Arabian
Nights. When one observed that the beacon was a most comfortless
lodging, Glen would presently introduce some of his exploits and
hardships, in comparison with which the state of things at the
beacon bore an aspect of comfort and happiness. Looking to their
slender stock of provisions, and their perilous and uncertain
chance of speedy relief, he would launch out into an account of one
of his expeditions in the North Sea, when the vessel, being much
disabled in a storm, was driven before the wind with the loss of
almost all their provisions; and the ship being much infested with
rats, the crew hunted these vermin with great eagerness to help
their scanty allowance. By such means Glen had the address to make
his companions, in some measure, satisfied, or at least passive,
with regard to their miserable prospects upon this half-tide rock
in the middle of the ocean. This incident is noticed, more
particularly, to show the effects of such a happy turn of mind,
even under the most distressing and ill-fated circumstances.
[Saturday, 17th June]
At eight a.m. the artificers and sailors, forty-five in number,
landed on the rock, and after four hours' work seven stones were
laid. The remainder of this tide, from the threatening appearance
of the weather, was occupied in trenailing and making all things as
secure as possible. At twelve noon the rock and building were
again overflowed, when the masons and seamen went on board of the
tender, but Mr. Watt, with his squad of ten men, remained on the
beacon throughout the day. As it blew fresh from the N.W. in the
evening, it was found impracticable either to land the building
artificers or to take the artificers off the beacon, and they were
accordingly left there all night, but in circumstances very
different from those of the 1st of this month. The house, being
now in a more complete state, was provided with bedding, and they
spent the night pretty well, though they complained of having been
much disturbed at the time of high-water by the shaking and
tremulous motion of their house and by the plashing noise of the
sea upon mortar gallery. Here James Glen's versatile powers were
again at work in cheering up those who seemed to be alarmed, and in
securing everything as far as possible. On this occasion he had
only to recall to the recollections of some of them the former
night which they had spent on the beacon, the wind and sea being
then much higher, and their habitation in a far less comfortable
state.
The wind still continuing to blow fresh from the N.W., at five p.m.
the writer caused a signal to be made from the tender for the
Smeaton and Patriot to slip their moorings, when they ran for Lunan
Bay, an anchorage on the east side of the Redhead. Those on board
of the tender spent but a very rough night, and perhaps slept less
soundly than their companions on the beacon, especially as the wind
was at N.W., which caused the vessel to ride with her stern towards
the Bell Rock; so that, in the event of anything giving way, she
could hardly have escaped being stranded upon it.
[Sunday, 18th June]
The weather having moderated to-day, the wind shifted to the
westward. At a quarter-past nine a.m. the artificers landed from
the tender and had the pleasure to find their friends who had been
left on the rock quite hearty, alleging that the beacon was the
preferable quarters of the two.
[Saturday, 24th June]
Mr. Peter Logan, the foreman builder, and his squad, twenty-one in
number, landed this morning at three o'clock, and continued at work
four hours and a quarter, and after laying seventeen stones
returned to the tender. At six a.m. Mr. Francis Watt and his squad
of twelve men landed, and proceeded with their respective
operations at the beacon and railways, and were left on the rock
during the whole day without the necessity of having any
communication with the tender, the kitchen of the beacon-house
being now fitted up. It was to-day, also, that Peter Fortune--a
most obliging and well-known character in the Lighthouse service--
was removed from the tender to the beacon as cook and steward, with
a stock of provisions as ample as his limited store-room would
admit.
When as many stones were built as comprised this day's work, the
demand for mortar was proportionally increased, and the task of the
mortar-makers on these occasions was both laborious and severe.
This operation was chiefly performed by John Watt--a strong, active
quarrier by profession,--who was a perfect character in his way,
and extremely zealous in his department. While the operations of
the mortar-makers continued, the forge upon the gallery was not
generally in use; but, as the working hours of the builders
extended with the height of the building, the forge could not be so
long wanted, and then a sad confusion often ensued upon the
circumscribed floor of the mortar gallery, as the operations of
Watt and his assistants trenched greatly upon those of the smiths.
Under these circumstances the boundary of the smiths was much
circumscribed, and they were personally annoyed, especially in
blowy weather, with the dust of the lime in its powdered state.
The mortar-makers, on the other hand, were often not a little
distressed with the heat of the fire and the sparks elicited on the
anvil, and not unaptly complained that they were placed between the
'devil and the deep sea.'
[Sunday, 25th June]
The work being now about ten feet in height, admitted of a rope-
ladder being distended {174a} between the beacon and the building.
By this 'Jacob's Ladder,' as the seamen termed it, a communication
was kept up with the beacon while the rock was considerably under
water. One end of it being furnished with tackle-blocks, was fixed
to the beams of the beacon, at the level of the mortar gallery,
while the further end was connected with the upper course of the
building by means of two Lewis bats which were lifted from course
to course as the work advanced. In the same manner a rope
furnished with a travelling pulley was distended for the purpose of
transporting the mortar-buckets, and other light articles between
the beacon and the building, which also proved a great conveniency
to the work. At this period the rope-ladder and tackle for the
mortar had a descent from the beacon to the building; by and by
they were on a level, and towards the end of the season, when the
solid part had attained its full height, the ascent was from the
mortar gallery to the building.
[Friday, 30th June]
The artificers landed on the rock this morning at a quarter-past
six, and remained at work five hours. The cooking apparatus being
now in full operation, all hands had breakfast on the beacon at the
usual hour, and remained there throughout the day. The crane upon
the building had to be raised to-day from the eighth to the ninth
course, an operation which now required all the strength that could
be mustered for working the guy-tackles; for as the top of the
crane was at this time about thirty-five feet above the rock, it
became much more unmanageable. While the beam was in the act of
swinging round from one guy to another, a great strain was suddenly
brought upon the opposite tackle, with the end of which the
artificers had very improperly neglected to take a turn round some
stationary object, which would have given them the complete command
of the tackle. Owing to this simple omission, the crane got a
preponderancy to one side, and fell upon the building with a
terrible crash. The surrounding artificers immediately flew in
every direction to get out of its way; but Michael Wishart, the
principal builder, having unluckily stumbled upon one of the uncut
trenails, fell upon his back. His body fortunately got between the
movable beam and the upright shaft of the crane, and was thus
saved; but his feet got entangled with the wheels of the crane and
were severely injured. Wishart, being a robust young man, endured
his misfortune with wonderful firmness; he was laid upon one of the
narrow framed beds of the beacon and despatched in a boat to the
tender, where the writer was when this accident happened, not a
little alarmed on missing the crane from the top of the building,
and at the same time seeing a boat rowing towards the vessel with
great speed. When the boat came alongside with poor Wishart,
stretched upon a bed covered with blankets, a moment of great
anxiety followed, which was, however, much relieved when, on
stepping into the boat, he was accosted by Wishart, though in a
feeble voice, and with an aspect pale as death from excessive
bleeding. Directions having been immediately given to the coxswain
to apply to Mr. Kennedy at the workyard to procure the best
surgical aid, the boat was sent off without delay to Arbroath. The
writer then landed at the rock, when the crane was in a very short
time got into its place and again put in a working state.
[Monday, 3rd July]
The writer having come to Arbroath with the yacht, had an
opportunity of visiting Michael Wishart, the artificer who had met
with so severe an accident at the rock on the 30th ult., and had
the pleasure to find him in a state of recovery. From Dr.
Stevenson's account, under whose charge he had been placed, hopes
were entertained that amputation would not be necessary, as his
patient still kept free of fever or any appearance of
mortification; and Wishart expressed a hope that he might, at
least, be ultimately capable of keeping the light at the Bell Rock,
as it was not now likely that he would assist further in building
the house.
[Saturday, 8th July]
It was remarked to-day, with no small demonstration of joy, that
the tide, being neap, did not, for the first time, overflow the
building at high-water. Flags were accordingly hoisted on the
beacon-house, and crane on the top of the building, which were
repeated from the floating light, Lighthouse yacht, tender,
Smeaton, Patriot, and the two praams. A salute of three guns was
also fired from the yacht at high-water, when, all the artificers
being collected on the top of the building, three cheers were given
in testimony of this important circumstance. A glass of rum was
then served out to all hands on the rock and on board of the
respective ships.
[Sunday, 16th July]
Besides laying, boring, trenailing, wedging, and grouting thirty-
two stones, several other operations were proceeded with on the
rock at low-water, when some of the artificers were employed at the
railways, and at high-water at the beacon-house. The seamen having
prepared a quantity of tarpaulin, or cloth laid over with
successive coats of hot tar, the joiners had just completed the
covering of the roof with it. This sort of covering was lighter
and more easily managed than sheet-lead in such a situation. As a
further defence against the weather the whole exterior of this
temporary residence was painted with three coats of white-lead
paint. Between the timber framing of the habitable part of the
beacon the interstices were to be stuffed with moss, as a light
substance that would resist dampness and check sifting winds; the
whole interior was then to be lined with green baize cloth, so that
both without and within the cabins were to have a very comfortable
appearance.
Although the building artificers generally remained on the rock
throughout the day, and the millwrights, joiners, and smiths, while
their number was considerable, remained also during the night, yet
the tender had hitherto been considered as their night quarters.
But the wind having in the course of the day shifted to the N.W.,
and as the passage to the tender, in the boats, was likely to be
attended with difficulty, the whole of the artificers, with Mr.
Logan, the foreman, preferred remaining all night on the beacon,
which had of late become the solitary abode of George-Forsyth, a
jobbing upholsterer, who had been employed in lining the beacon-
house with cloth and in fitting up the bedding. Forsyth was a
tall, thin, and rather loose-made man, who had an utter aversion at
climbing upon the trap-ladders of the beacon, but especially at the
process of boating, and the motion of the ship, which he said 'was
death itself.' He therefore pertinaciously insisted with the
landing-master in being left upon the beacon, with a small black
dog as his only companion. The writer, however, felt some delicacy
in leaving a single individual upon the rock, who must have been so
very helpless in case of accident. This fabric had, from the
beginning, been rather intended by the writer to guard against
accident from the loss or damage of a boat, and as a place for
making mortar, a smith's shop, and a store for tools during the
working months, than as permanent quarters; nor was it at all meant
to be possessed until tile joiner-work was completely finished, and
his own cabin, and that for the foreman, in readiness, when it was
still to be left to the choice of the artificers to occupy the
tender or the beacon. He, however, considered Forsyth's partiality
and confidence in the latter as rather a fortunate occurrence.
[Wednesday, 19th July]
The whole of the artificers, twenty-three in number, now removed of
their own accord from the tender, to lodge in the beacon, together
with Peter Fortune, a person singularly adapted for a residence of
this kind, both from the urbanity of his manners and the
versatility of his talents. Fortune, in his person, was of small
stature, and rather corpulent. Besides being a good Scots cook, he
had acted both as groom and house-servant; he had been a soldier, a
sutler, a writer's clerk, and an apothecary, from which he
possessed the art of writing and suggesting recipes, and had hence,
also, perhaps, acquired a turn for making collections in natural
history. But in his practice in surgery on the Bell Rock, for
which he received an annual fee of three guineas, he is supposed to
have been rather partial to the use of the lancet. In short, Peter
was the factotum of the beacon-house, where he ostensibly acted in
the several capacities of cook, steward, surgeon, and barber, and
kept a statement of the rations or expenditure of the provisions
with the strictest integrity.
In the present important state of the building, when it had just
attained the height of sixteen feet, and the upper courses, and
especially the imperfect one, were in the wash of the heaviest
seas, an express boat arrived at the rock with a letter from Mr.
Kennedy, of the workyard, stating that in consequence of the
intended expedition to Walcheren, an embargo had been laid on
shipping at all the ports of Great Britain: that both the Smeaton
and Patriot were detained at Arbroath, and that but for the proper
view which Mr. Ramsey, the port officer, had taken of his orders,
neither the express boat nor one which had been sent with
provisions and necessaries for the floating light would have been
permitted to leave the harbour. The writer set off without delay
for Arbroath, and on landing used every possible means with the
official people, but their orders were deemed so peremptory that
even boats were not permitted to sail from any port upon the coast.
In the meantime, the collector of the Customs at Montrose applied
to the Board at Edinburgh, but could, of himself, grant no relief
to the Bell Rock shipping.
At this critical period Mr. Adam Duff, then Sheriff of Forfarshire,
now of the county of Edinburgh, and ex officio one of the
Commissioners of the Northern Lighthouses, happened to be at
Arbroath. Mr. Duff took an immediate interest in representing the
circumstances of the case to the Board of Customs at Edinburgh.
But such were the doubts entertained on the subject that, on having
previously received the appeal from the collector at Montrose, the
case had been submitted to the consideration of the Lords of the
Treasury, whose decision was now waited for.
In this state of things the writer felt particularly desirous to
get the thirteenth course finished, that the building might be in a
more secure state in the event of bad weather. An opportunity was
therefore embraced on the 25th, in sailing with provisions for the
floating light, to carry the necessary stones to the rock for this
purpose, which were landed and built on the 26th and 27th. But so
closely was the watch kept up that a Custom-house officer was
always placed on board of the Smeaton and Patriot while they were
afloat, till the embargo was especially removed from the lighthouse
vessels. The artificers at the Bell Rock had been reduced to
fifteen, who were regularly supplied with provisions, along with
the crew of the floating light, mainly through the port officer's
liberal interpretation of his orders.
[Tuesday, 1st Aug.]
There being a considerable swell and breach of sea upon the rock
yesterday, the stones could not be got landed till the day
following, when the wind shifted to the southward and the weather
improved. But to-day no less than seventy-eight blocks of stone
were landed, of which forty were built, which completed the
fourteenth and part of the fifteenth courses. The number of
workmen now resident in the beacon-house was augmented to twenty-
four, including the landing-master's crew from the tender and the
boat's crew from the floating light, who assisted at landing the
stones. Those daily at work upon the rock at this period amounted
to forty-six. A cabin had been laid out for the writer on the
beacon, but his apartment had been the last which was finished, and
he had not yet taken possession of it; for though he generally
spent the greater part of the day, at this time, upon the rock, yet
he always slept on board of the tender.
[Friday, 11th Aug.]
The wind was at S. E. on the 11th, and there was so very heavy a
swell of sea upon the rock that no boat could approach it.
[Saturday, 12th Aug.]
The gale still continuing from the S.E., the sea broke with great
violence both upon the building and the beacon. The former being
twenty-three feet in height, the upper part of the crane erected on
it having been lifted from course to course as the building
advanced, was now about thirty-six feet above the rock. From
observations made on the rise of the sea by this crane, the
artificers were enabled to estimate its height to be about fifty
feet above the rock, while the sprays fell with a most alarming
noise upon their cabins. At low-water, in the evening, a signal
was made from the beacon, at the earnest desire of some of the
artificers, for the boats to come to the rock; and although this
could not be effected without considerable hazard, it was, however,
accomplished, when twelve of their number, being much afraid,
applied to the foreman to be relieved, and went on board of the
tender. But the remaining fourteen continued on the rock, with Mr.
Peter Logan, the foreman builder. Although this rule of allowing
an option to every man either to remain on the rock or return to
the tender was strictly adhered to, yet, as it would have been
extremely inconvenient to have the men parcelled out in this
manner, it became necessary to embrace the first opportunity of
sending those who had left the beacon to the workyard, with as
little appearance of intention as possible, lest it should hurt
their feelings, or prevent others from acting according to their
wishes, either in landing on the rock or remaining on the beacon.
[Tuesday, 15th Aug.]
The wind had fortunately shifted to the S.W. this morning, and
though a considerable breach was still upon the rock, yet the
landing-master's crew were enabled to get one praam-boat, lightly
loaded with five stones, brought in safety to the western creek;
these stones were immediately laid by the artificers, who gladly
embraced the return of good weather to proceed with their
operations. The writer had this day taken possession of his cabin
in the beacon-house. It was small, but commodious, and was found
particularly convenient in coarse and blowing weather, instead of
being obliged to make a passage to the tender in an open boat at
all times, both during the day and the night, which was often
attended with much difficulty and danger.
[Saturday, 19th Aug.]
For some days past the weather had been occasionally so thick and
foggy that no small difficulty was experienced in going even
between the rock and the tender, though quite at hand. But the
floating light's boat lost her way so far in returning on board
that the first land she made, after rowing all night, was Fifeness,
a distance of about fourteen miles. The weather having cleared in
the morning, the crew stood off again for the floating light, and
got on board in a half-famished and much exhausted state, having
been constantly rowing for about sixteen hours.
[Sunday, 20th Aug.]
The weather being very favourable to-day, fifty-three stones were
landed, and the builders were not a little gratified in having
built the twenty-second course, consisting of fifty-one stones,
being the first course which had been completed in one day. This,
as a matter of course, produced three hearty cheers. At twelve
noon prayers were read for the first time on the Bell Rock; those
present, counting thirty, were crowded into the upper apartment of
the beacon, where the writer took a central position, while two of
the artificers, joining hands, supported the Bible.
[Friday, 25th Aug.]
To-day the artificers laid forty-five stones, which completed the
twenty-fourth course, reckoning above the first entire one, and the
twenty-sixth above the rock. This finished the solid part of the
building, and terminated the height of the outward casing of
granite, which is thirty-one feet six inches above the rock or site
of the foundation-stone, and about seventeen feet above high-water
of spring-tides. Being a particular crisis in the progress of the
lighthouse, the landing and laying of the last stone for the season
was observed with the usual ceremonies.
From observations often made by the writer, in so far as such can
be ascertained, it appears that no wave in the open seas, in an
unbroken state, rises more than from seven to nine feet above the
general surface of the ocean. The Bell Rock Lighthouse may
therefore now be considered at from eight to ten feet above the
height of the waves; and, although the sprays and heavy seas have
often been observed, in the present state of the building, to rise
to the height of fifty feet, and fall with a tremendous noise on
the beacon-house, yet such seas were not likely to make any
impression on a mass of solid masonry, containing about 1400 tons,
[Wednesday, 30th Aug.]
The whole of the artificers left the rock at mid-day, when the
tender made sail for Arbroath, which she reached about six p.m.
The vessel being decorated with colours, and having fired a salute
of three guns on approaching the harbour, the workyard artificers,
with a multitude of people, assembled at the harbour, when mutual
cheering and congratulations took place between those afloat and
those on the quays. The tender had now, with little exception,
been six months on the station at the Bell Rock, and during the
last four months few of the squad of builders had been ashore. In
particular, Mr. Peter Logan, the foreman, and Mr. Robert Selkirk,
principal builder, had never once left the rock. The artificers,
having made good wages during their stay, like seamen upon a return
voyage, were extremely happy, and spent the evening with much
innocent mirth and jollity.
In reflecting upon the state of the matters at the Bell Rock during
the working months, when the writer was much with the artificers,
nothing can equal the happy manner in which these excellent workmen
spent their time. They always went from Arbroath to their arduous
task cheering and they generally returned in the same hearty state.
While at the rock, between the tides, they amused themselves in
reading, fishing, music, playing cards, draughts, etc., or in
sporting with one another. In the workyard at Arbroath the young
men were almost, without exception, employed in the evening at
school, in writing and arithmetic, and not a few were learning
architectural drawing, for which they had every convenience and
facility, and were, in a very obliging manner, assisted in their
studies by Mr. David Logan, clerk of the works. It therefore
affords the most pleasing reflections to look back upon the
pursuits of about sixty individuals who for years conducted
themselves, on all occasions, in a sober and rational manner.
IV--OPERATIONS OF 1810
[Thursday, 10th May]
The wind had shifted to-day to W.N.W., when the writer, with
considerable difficulty, was enabled to land upon the rock for the
first time this season, at ten a.m. Upon examining the state of
the building, and apparatus in general, he had the satisfaction to
find everything in good order. The mortar in all the joints was
perfectly entire. The building, now thirty feet in height, was
thickly coated with fuci to the height of about fifteen feet,
calculating from the rock: on the eastern side, indeed, the growth
of seaweed was observable to the full height of thirty feet, and
even on the top or upper bed of the last-laid course, especially
towards the eastern side, it had germinated, so as to render
walking upon it somewhat difficult.
The beacon-house was in a perfectly sound state, and apparently
just as it had been left in the month of November. But the tides
being neap, the lower parts, particularly where the beams rested on
the rock, could not now be seen. The floor of the mortar gallery
having been already laid down by Mr. Watt and his men on a former
visit, was merely soaked with the sprays; but the joisting-beams
which supported it had, in the course of the winter, been covered
with a fine downy conferva produced by the range of the sea. They
were also a good deal whitened with the mute of the cormorant and
other sea-fowls, which had roosted upon the beacon in winter. Upon
ascending to the apartments, it was found that the motion of the
sea had thrown open the door of the cook-house: this was only shut
with a single latch, that in case of shipwreck at the Bell Rock the
mariner might find ready access to the shelter of this forlorn
habitation, where a supply of provisions was kept; and being within
two miles and a half of the floating light, a signal could readily
be observed, when a boat might be sent to his relief as the weather
permitted. An arrangement for this purpose formed one of the
instructions on board of the floating light, but happily no
instance occurred for putting it in practice. The hearth or
fireplace of the cook-house was built of brick in as secure a
manner as possible, to prevent accident from fire; but some of the
plaster-work had shaken loose, from its damp state and the
tremulous motion of the beacon in stormy weather. The writer next
ascended to the floor which was occupied by the cabins of himself
and his assistants, which were in tolerably good order, having only
a damp and musty smell. The barrack for the artificers, over all,
was next visited; it had now a very dreary and deserted appearance
when its former thronged state was recollected. In some parts the
water had come through the boarding, and had discoloured the lining
of green cloth, but it was, nevertheless, in a good habitable
condition. While the seamen were employed in landing a stock of
provisions, a few of the artificers set to work with great
eagerness to sweep and clean the several apartments. The exterior
of the beacon was, in the meantime, examined, and found in perfect
order. The painting, though it had a somewhat blanched appearance,
adhered firmly both on the sides and roof, and only two or three
panes of glass were broken in the cupola, which had either been
blown out by the force of the wind, or perhaps broken by sea-fowl.
Having on this occasion continued upon the building and beacon a
considerable time after the tide had begun to flow, the artificers
were occupied in removing the forge from the top of the building,
to which the gangway or wooden bridge gave great facility; and,
although it stretched or had a span of forty-two feet, its
construction was extremely simple, while the road-way was perfectly
firm and steady. In returning from this visit to the rock every
one was pretty well soused in spray before reaching the tender at
two o'clock p.m., where things awaited the landing party in as
comfortable a way as such a situation would admit.
[Friday, 11th May]
The wind was still easterly, accompanied with rather a heavy swell
of sea for the operations in hand. A landing was, however, made
this morning, when the artificers were immediately employed in
scraping the seaweed off the upper course of the building, in order
to apply the moulds of the first course of the staircase, that the
joggle-holes might be marked off in the upper course of the solid.
This was also necessary previously to the writer's fixing the
position of the entrance door, which was regulated chiefly by the
appearance of the growth of the seaweed on the building, indicating
the direction of the heaviest seas, on the opposite side of which
the door was placed. The landing-master's crew succeeded in towing
into the creek on the western side of the rock the praam-boat with
the balance-crane, which had now been on board of the praam for
five days. The several pieces of this machine, having been
conveyed along the railways upon the waggons to a position
immediately under the bridge, were elevated to its level, or thirty
feet above the rock, in the following manner. A chain-tackle was
suspended over a pulley from the cross-beam connecting the tops of
the kingposts of the bridge, which was worked by a winch-machine
with wheel, pinion, and barrel, round which last the chain was
wound. This apparatus was placed on the beacon side of the bridge,
at the distance of about twelve feet from the cross-beam and pulley
in the middle of the bridge. Immediately under the cross-beam a
hatch was formed in the roadway of the bridge, measuring seven feet
in length and five feet in breadth, made to shut with folding
boards like a double door, through which stones and other articles
were raised; the folding doors were then let down, and the stone or
load was gently lowered upon a waggon which was wheeled on railway
trucks towards the lighthouse. In this manner the several castings
of the balance-crane were got up to the top of the solid of the
building.
The several apartments of the beacon-house having been cleaned out
and supplied with bedding, a sufficient stock of provisions was put
into the store, when Peter Fortune, formerly noticed, lighted his
fire in the beacon for the first time this season. Sixteen
artificers at the same time mounted to their barrack-room, and all
the foremen of the works also took possession of their cabin, all
heartily rejoiced at getting rid of the trouble of boating and the
sickly motion of the tender.
[Saturday, 12th May]
The wind was at E.N.E., blowing so fresh, and accompanied with so
much sea, that no stones could be landed to-day. The people on the
rock, however, were busily employed in screwing together the
balance-crane, cutting out the joggle-holes in the upper course,
and preparing all things for commencing the building operations.
[Sunday, 13th May]
The weather still continues boisterous, although the barometer has
all the while stood at about 30 inches. Towards evening the wind
blew so fresh at E. by S. that the boats both of the Smeaton and
tender were obliged to be hoisted in, and it was feared that the
Smeaton would have to slip her moorings. The people on the rock
were seen busily employed, and had the balance-crane apparently
ready for use, but no communication could be had with them to-day.
[Monday, 14th May]
The wind continued to blow so fresh, and the Smeaton rode so
heavily with her cargo, that at noon a signal was made for her
getting under weigh, when she stood towards Arbroath; and on board
of the tender we are still without any communication with the
people on the rock, where the sea was seen breaking over the top of
the building in great sprays, and raging with much agitation among
the beams of the beacon.
[Thursday, 17th May]
The wind, in the course of the day, had shifted from north to west;
the sea being also considerably less, a boat landed on the rock at
six p.m., for the first time since the 11th, with the provisions
and water brought off by the Patriot. The inhabitants of the
beacon were all well, but tired above measure for want of
employment, as the balance-crane and apparatus was all in
readiness. Under these circumstances they felt no less desirous of
the return of good weather than those afloat, who were continually
tossed with the agitation of the sea. The writer, in particular,
felt himself almost as much fatigued and worn-out as he had been at
any period since the commencement of the work. The very backward
state of the weather at so advanced a period of the season
unavoidably created some alarm, lest he should be overtaken with
bad weather at a late period of the season, with the building
operations in an unfinished state. These apprehensions were, no
doubt, rather increased by the inconveniences of his situation
afloat, as the tender rolled and pitched excessively at times.
This being also his first off-set for the season, every bone of his
body felt sore with preserving a sitting posture while he
endeavoured to pass away the time in reading; as for writing, it
was wholly impracticable. He had several times entertained
thoughts of leaving the station for a few days and going into
Arbroath with the tender till the weather should improve; but as
the artificers had been landed on the rock he was averse to this at
the commencement of the season, knowing also that he would be
equally uneasy in every situation till the first cargo was landed:
and he therefore resolved to continue at his post until this should
be effected.
[Friday, 18th May]
The wind being now N.W., the sea was considerably run down, and
this morning at five o'clock the landing-master's crew, thirteen in
number, left the tender; and having now no detention with the
landing of artificers, they proceeded to unmoor the Hedderwick
praam-boat, and towed her alongside of the Smeaton: and in the
course of the day twenty-three blocks of stone, three casks of
pozzolano, three of sand, three of lime, and one of Roman cement,
together with three bundles of trenails and three of wedges, were
all landed on the rock and raised the top of the building by means
of the tackle suspended from the cross-beam on the middle of the
bridge. The stones were then moved along the bridge on the waggon
to the building within reach of the balance-crane, with which they
were laid in their respective places on the building. The masons
immediately thereafter proceeded to bore the trenail-holes into the
course below, and otherwise to complete the one in hand. When the
first stone was to be suspended by the balance-crane, the bell on
the beacon was rung, and all the artificers and seamen were
collected on the building. Three hearty cheers were given while it
was lowered into its place, and the steward served round a glass of
rum, when success was drunk to the further progress of the
building.
[Sunday, 20th May]
The wind was southerly to-day, but there was much less sea than
yesterday, and the landing-master's crew were enabled to discharge
and land twenty-three pieces of stone and other articles for the
work. The artificers had completed the laying of the twenty-
seventh or first course of the staircase this morning, and in the
evening they finished the boring, trenailing, wedging, and grouting
it with mortar. At twelve o'clock noon the beacon-house bell was
rung, and all hands were collected on the top of the building,
where prayers were read for the first time on the lighthouse, which
forcibly struck every one, and had, upon the whole, a very
impressive effect.
From the hazardous situation of the beacon-house with regard to
fire, being composed wholly of timber, there was no small risk from
accident: and on this account one of the most steady of the
artificers was appointed to see that the fire of the cooking-house,
and the lights in general, were carefully extinguished at stated
hours.
[Monday, 4th June]
This being the birthday of our much-revered Sovereign King George
III, now in the fiftieth year of his reign, the shipping of the
Lighthouse service were this morning decorated with colours
according to the taste of their respective captains. Flags were
also hoisted upon the beacon-house and balance-crane on the top of
the building. At twelve noon a salute was fired from the tender,
when the King's health was drunk, with all the honours, both on the
rock and on board of the shipping.
[Tuesday, 5th June]
As the lighthouse advanced in height, the cubical contents of the
stones were less, but they had to be raised to a greater height;
and the walls, being thinner, were less commodious for the
necessary machinery and the artificers employed, which considerably
retarded the work. Inconvenience was also occasionally experienced
from the men dropping their coats, hats, mallets, and other tools,
at high-water, which were carried away by the tide; and the danger
to the people themselves was now greatly increased. Had any of
them fallen from the beacon or building at high-water, while the
landing-master's crew were generally engaged with the craft at a
distance, it must have rendered the accident doubly painful to
those on the rock, who at this time had no boat, and consequently
no means of rendering immediate and prompt assistance. In such
cases it would have been too late to have got a boat by signal from
the tender. A small boat, which could be lowered at pleasure, was
therefore suspended by a pair of davits projected from the cook-
house, the keel being about thirty feet from the rock. This boat,
with its tackle was put under the charge of James Glen, of whose
exertions on the beacon mention has already been made, and who,
having in early life been a seaman, was also very expert in the
management of a boat. A life-buoy was likewise suspended from the
bridge, to which a coil of line two hundred fathoms in length was
attached, which could be let out to a person falling into the
water, or to the people in the boat, should they not be able to
work her with the oars.
[Tuesday, 7th June]
To-day twelve stones were landed on the rock, being the remainder
of the Patriot's cargo; and the artificers built the thirty-ninth
course, consisting of fourteen stones. The Bell Rock works had now
a very busy appearance, as the lighthouse was daily getting more
into form. Besides the artificers and their cook, the writer and
his servant were also lodged on the beacon, counting in all twenty-
nine; and at low-water the landing-master's crew, consisting of
from twelve to fifteen seamen, were employed in transporting the
building materials, working the landing apparatus on the rock, and
dragging the stone waggons along the railways.
[Friday, 8th June]
In the course of this day the weather varied much. In the morning
it was calm, in the middle part of the day there were light airs of
wind from the south, and in the evening fresh breezes from the
east. The barometer in the writer's cabin in the beacon-house
oscillated from 30 inches to 30.42, and the weather was extremely
pleasant. This, in any situation, forms one of the chief comforts
of life; but, as may easily be conceived, it was doubly so to
people stuck, as it were, upon a pinnacle in the middle of the
ocean.
[Sunday, 10th June]
One of the praam-boats had been brought to the rock with eleven
stones, notwithstanding the perplexity which attended the getting
of those formerly landed taken up to the building. Mr. Peter
Logan, the foreman builder, interposed, and prevented this cargo
from being delivered; but the landing-master's crew were
exceedingly averse to this arrangement, from an idea that "ill
luck" would in future attend the praam, her cargo, and those who
navigated her, from thus reversing her voyage. It may be noticed
that this was the first instance of a praam-boat having been sent
from the Bell Rock with any part of her cargo on board, and was
considered so uncommon an occurrence that it became a topic of
conversation among the seamen and artificers.
[Tuesday, 12th June]
To-day the stones formerly sent from the rock were safely landed,
notwithstanding the augury of the seamen in consequence of their
being sent away two days before.
[Thursday, 14th June]
To-day twenty-seven stones and eleven joggle-pieces were landed,
part of which consisted of the forty-seventh course, forming the
storeroom floor. The builders were at work this morning by four
o'clock, in the hopes of being able to accomplish the laying of the
eighteen stones of this course. But at eight o'clock in the
evening they had still two to lay, and as the stones of this course
were very unwieldy, being six feet in length, they required much
precaution and care both in lifting and laying them. It was only
on the writer's suggestion to Mr. Logan that the artificers were
induced to leave off, as they had intended to complete this floor
before going to bed. The two remaining stones were, however, laid
in their places without mortar when the bell on the beacon was
rung, and, all hands being collected on the top of the building,
three hearty cheers were given on covering the first apartment.
The steward then served out a dram to each, when the whole retired
to their barrack much fatigued, but with the anticipation of the
most perfect repose even in the "hurricane-house," amidst the
dashing seas on the Bell Rock.