Robert Louis Stevenson

Records of a Family of Engineers
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While the workmen were at breakfast and dinner it was the writer's
usual practice to spend his time on the walls of the building,
which, notwithstanding the narrowness of the track, nevertheless
formed his principal walk when the rock was under water.  But this
afternoon he had his writing-desk set upon the storeroom floor,
when he wrote to Mrs. Stevenson--certainly the first letter dated
from the Bell Rock LIGHTHOUSE--giving a detail of the fortunate
progress of the work with an assurance that the lighthouse would
soon be completed at the rate at which it now proceeded; and, the
Patriot having sailed for Arbroath in the evening, he felt no small
degree of pleasure in despatching this communication to his family.

The weather still continuing favourable for the operations at the
rock, the work proceeded with much energy, through the exertions
both of the seamen and artificers.  For the more speedy and
effectual working of the several tackles in raising the materials
as the building advanced in height, and there being a great extent
of railway to attend to, which required constant repairs, two
additional millwrights were added to the complement on the rock,
which, including the writer, now counted thirty-one in all.  So
crowded was the men's barrack that the beds were ranged five tier
in height, allowing only about one foot eight inches for each bed.
The artificers commenced this morning at five o'clock, and, in the
course of the day, they laid the forty-eighth and forty-ninth
courses, consisting each of sixteen blocks.  From the favourable
state of the weather, and the regular manner in which the work now
proceeded, the artificers had generally from four to seven extra
hours' work, which, including their stated wages of 3s. 4d.,
yielded them from 5s. 4d. to about 6s. 10d. per day besides their
board; even the postage of their letters was paid while they were
at the Bell Rock.  In these advantages the foremen also shared,
having about double the pay and amount of premiums of the
artificers.  The seamen being less out of their element in the Bell
Rock operations than the landsmen, their premiums consisted in a
slump sum payable at the end of the season, which extended from
three to ten guineas.

As the laying of the floors was somewhat tedious, the landing-
master and his crew had got considerably beforehand with the
building artificers in bringing materials faster to the rock than
they could be built.  The seamen having, therefore, some spare
time, were occasionally employed during fine weather in dredging or
grappling for the several mushroom anchors and mooring-chains which
had been lost in the vicinity of the Bell Rock during the progress
of the work by the breaking loose and drifting of the floating
buoys.  To encourage their exertions in this search, five guineas
were offered as a premium for each set they should find; and, after
much patient application, they succeeded to-day in hooking one of
these lost anchors with its chain.

It was a general remark at the Bell Rock, as before noticed, that
fish were never plenty in its neighbourhood excepting in good
weather.  Indeed, the seamen used to speculate about the state of
the weather from their success in fishing.  When the fish
disappeared at the rock, it was considered a sure indication that a
gale was not far off, as the fish seemed to seek shelter in deeper
water from the roughness of the sea during these changes in the
weather.  At this time the rock, at high-water, was completely
covered with podlies, or the fry of the coal-fish, about six or
eight inches in length.  The artificers sometimes occupied half an
hour after breakfast and dinner in catching these little fishes,
but were more frequently supplied from the boats of the tender.

[Saturday, 16th June]

The landing-master having this day discharged the Smeaton and
loaded the Hedderwick and Dickie praam-boats with nineteen stones,
they were towed to their respective moorings, when Captain Wilson,
in consequence of the heavy swell of sea, came in his boat to the
beacon-house to consult with the writer as to the propriety of
venturing the loaded praam-boats with their cargoes to the rock
while so much sea was running.  After some dubiety expressed on the
subject, in which the ardent mind of the landing-master suggested
many arguments in favour of his being able to convey the praams in
perfect safety, it was acceded to.  In bad weather, and especially
on occasions of difficulty like the present, Mr. Wilson, who was an
extremely active seaman, measuring about five feet three inches in
height, of a robust habit, generally dressed himself in what he
called a MONKEY JACKET, made of thick duffle cloth, with a pair of
Dutchman's petticoat trousers, reaching only to his knees, where
they were met with a pair of long water-tight boots; with this
dress, his glazed hat, and his small brass speaking trumpet in his
hand, he bade defiance to the weather.  When he made his appearance
in this most suitable attire for the service his crew seemed to
possess additional life, never failing to use their utmost
exertions when the captain put on his STORM RIGGING.  They had this
morning commenced loading the praam-boats at four o'clock, and
proceeded to tow them into the eastern landing-place, which was
accomplished with much dexterity, though not without the risk of
being thrown, by the force of the sea, on certain projecting ledges
of the rock.  In such a case the loss even of a single stone would
have greatly retarded the work.  For the greater safety in entering
the creek it was necessary to put out several warps and guy-ropes
to guide the boats into its narrow and intricate entrance; and it
frequently happened that the sea made a clean breach over the
praams, which not only washed their decks, but completely drenched
the crew in water.

[Sunday, 17th June]

It was fortunate, in the present state of the weather, that the
fiftieth course was in a sheltered spot, within the reach of the
tackle of the winch-machine upon the bridge; a few stones were
stowed upon the bridge itself, and the remainder upon the building,
which kept the artificers at work.  The stowing of the materials
upon the rock was the department of Alexander Brebner, mason, who
spared no pains in attending to the safety of the stones, and who,
in the present state of the work, when the stones were landed
faster than could be built, generally worked till the water rose to
his middle.  At one o'clock to-day the bell rung for prayers, and
all hands were collected into the upper barrack-room of the beacon-
house, when the usual service was performed.

The wind blew very hard in the course of last night from N.E., and
to-day the sea ran so high that no boat could approach the rock.
During the dinner-hour, when the writer was going to the top of the
building as usual, but just as he had entered the door and was
about to ascend the ladder, a great noise was heard overhead, and
in an instant he was soused in water from a sea which had most
unexpectedly come over the walls, though now about fifty-eight feet
in height.  On making his retreat he found himself completely
whitened by the lime, which had mixed with the water while dashing
down through the different floors; and, as nearly as he could
guess, a quantity equal to about a hogshead had come over the
walls, and now streamed out at the door.  After having shifted
himself, he again sat down in his cabin, the sea continuing to run
so high that the builders did not resume their operations on the
walls this afternoon.  The incident just noticed did not create
more surprise in the mind of the writer than the sublime appearance
of the waves as they rolled majestically over the rock.  This scene
he greatly enjoyed while sitting at his cabin window; each wave
approached the beacon like a vast scroll unfolding; and in passing
discharged a quantity of air, which he not only distinctly felt,
but was even sufficient to lift the leaves of a book which lay
before him.  These waves might be ten or twelve feet in height, and
about 250 feet in length, their smaller end being towards the
north, where the water was deep, and they were opened or cut
through by the interposition of the building and beacon.  The
gradual manner in which the sea, upon these occasions, is observed
to become calm or to subside, is a very remarkable feature of this
phenomenon.  For example, when a gale is succeeded by a calm, every
third or fourth wave forms one of these great seas, which occur in
spaces of from three to five minutes, as noted by the writer's
watch; but in the course of the next tide they become less
frequent, and take off so as to occur only in ten or fifteen
minutes; and, singular enough, at the third tide after such gales,
the writer has remarked that only one or two of these great waves
appear in the course of the whole tide.

[Tuesday, 19th June]

The 19th was a very unpleasant and disagreeable day, both for the
seamen and artificers, as it rained throughout with little
intermission from four a.m. till eleven p.m., accompanied with
thunder and lightning, during which period the work nevertheless
continued unremittingly, and the builders laid the fifty-first and
fifty-second courses.  This state of weather was no less severe
upon the mortar-makers, who required to temper or prepare the
mortar of a thicker or thinner consistency, in some measure,
according to the state of the weather.  From the elevated position
of the building, the mortar gallery on the beacon was now much
lower, and the lime-buckets were made to traverse upon a rope
distended between it and the building.  On occasions like the
present, however, there was often a difference of opinion between
the builders and the mortar-makers.  John Watt, who had the
principal charge of the mortar, was a most active worker, but,
being somewhat of an irascible temper, the builders occasionally
amused themselves at his expense; for while he was eagerly at work
with his large iron-shod pestle in the mortar-tub, they often sent
down contradictory orders, some crying, 'Make it a little stiffer,
or thicker, John,' while others called out to make it 'thinner,' to
which he generally returned very speedy and sharp replies, so that
these conversations at times were rather amusing.

During wet weather the situation of the artificers on the top of
the building was extremely disagreeable; for although their work
did not require great exertion, yet, as each man had his particular
part to perform, either in working the crane or in laying the
stones, it required the closest application and attention, not only
on the part of Mr. Peter Logan, the foreman, who was constantly on
the walls, but also of the chief workmen.  Robert Selkirk, the
principal builder, for example, had every stone to lay in its
place.  David Cumming, a mason, had the charge of working the
tackle of the balance-weight, and James Scott, also a mason, took
charge of the purchase with which the stones were laid; while the
pointing the joints of the walls with cement was intrusted to
William Reid and William Kennedy, who stood upon a scaffold
suspended over the walls in rather a frightful manner.  The least
act of carelessness or inattention on the part of any of these men
might have been fatal, not only to themselves, but also to the
surrounding workmen, especially if any accident had happened to the
crane itself, while the material damage or loss of a single stone
would have put an entire stop to the operations until another could
have been brought from Arbroath.  The artificers, having wrought
seven and a half hours of extra time to-day, had 3s. 9d. of extra
pay, while the foremen had 7s. 6d. over and above their stated pay
and board.  Although, therefore, the work was both hazardous and
fatiguing, yet, the encouragement being considerable, they were
always very cheerful, and perfectly reconciled to the confinement
and other disadvantages of the place.

During fine weather, and while the nights were short, the duty on
board of the floating light was literally nothing but a waiting on,
and therefore one of her boats, with a crew of five men, daily
attended the rock, but always returned to the vessel at night.  The
carpenter, however, was one of those who was left on board of the
ship, as he also acted in the capacity of assistant lightkeeper,
being, besides, a person who was apt to feel discontent and to be
averse to changing his quarters, especially to work with the
millwrights and joiners at the rock, who often, for hours together,
wrought knee-deep, and not unfrequently up to the middle, in water.
Mr. Watt having about this time made a requisition for another
hand, the carpenter was ordered to attend the rock in the floating
light's boat.  This he did with great reluctance, and found so much
fault that he soon got into discredit with his messmates.  On this
occasion he left the Lighthouse service, and went as a sailor in a
vessel bound for America--a step which, it is believed, he soon
regretted, as, in the course of things, he would, in all
probability, have accompanied Mr. John Reid, the principal
lightkeeper of the floating light, to the Bell Rock Lighthouse as
his principal assistant.  The writer had a wish to be of service to
this man, as he was one of those who came off to the floating light
in the month of September 1807, while she was riding at single
anchor after the severe gale of the 7th, at a time when it was
hardly possible to make up this vessel's crew; but the crossness of
his manner prevented his reaping the benefit of such intentions.

[Friday, 22nd June]

The building operations had for some time proceeded more slowly,
from the higher parts of the lighthouse requiring much longer time
than an equal tonnage of the lower courses.  The duty of the
landing-master's crew had, upon the whole, been easy of late; for
though the work was occasionally irregular, yet the stones being
lighter, they were more speedily lifted from the hold of the stone
vessel to the deck of the praam-boat, and again to the waggons on
the railway, after which they came properly under the charge of the
foreman builder.  It is, however, a strange, though not an
uncommon, feature in the human character, that, when people have
least to complain of, they are most apt to become dissatisfied, as
was now the case with the seamen employed in the Bell Rock service
about their rations of beer.  Indeed, ever since the carpenter of
the floating light, formerly noticed, had been brought to the rock,
expressions of discontent had been manifested upon various
occasions.  This being represented to the writer, he sent for
Captain Wilson, the landing-master, and Mr. Taylor, commander of
the tender, with whom he talked over the subject.  They stated that
they considered the daily allowance of the seamen in every respect
ample, and that, the work being now much lighter than formerly,
they had no just ground for complaint; Mr. Taylor adding that, if
those who now complained 'were even to be fed upon soft bread and
turkeys, they would not think themselves right.'  At twelve noon
the work of the landing-master's crew was completed for the day;
but at four o'clock, while the rock was under water, those on the
beacon were surprised by the arrival of a boat from the tender
without any signal having been made from the beacon.  It brought
the following note to the writer from the landing-master's crew:-


'Sir Joseph Banks Tender.

'SIR,--We are informed by our masters that our allowance is to be
as before, and it is not sufficient to serve us, for we have been
at work since four o'clock this morning, and we have come on board
to dinner, and there is no beer for us before to-morrow morning, to
which a sufficient answer is required before we go from the beacon;
and we are, Sir, your most obedient servants.'


On reading this, the writer returned a verbal message, intimating
that an answer would be sent on board of the tender, at the same
time ordering the boat instantly to quit the beacon.  He then
addressed the following note to the landing-master:-


'Beacon-house, 22nd June 1810,
Five o'clock p.m.

'SIR,--I have just now received a letter purporting to be from the
landing-master's crew and seamen on board of the Sir Joseph Banks,
though without either date or signature; in answer to which I
enclose a statement of the daily allowance of provisions for the
seamen in this service, which you will post up in the ship's
galley, and at seven o'clock this evening I will come on board to
inquire into this unexpected and most unnecessary demand for an
additional allowance of beer.  In the enclosed you will not find
any alteration from the original statement, fixed in the galley at
the beginning of the season.  I have, however, judged this mode of
giving your people an answer preferable to that of conversing with
them on the beacon. --I am, Sir, your most obedient servant, ROBERT
STEVENSON.

'To CAPTAIN WILSON.'

'Beacon House, 22nd June 1810.--Schedule of the daily allowance of
provisions to be served out on board of the Sir Joseph Banks
tender:  "1.5 lb. beef; 1 lb. bread; 8 oz. oatmeal; 2 oz. barley; 2
oz. butter; 3 quarts beer; vegetables and salt no stated allowance.
When the seamen are employed in unloading the Smeaton and Patriot,
a draught of beer is, as formerly, to be allowed from the stock of
these vessels.  Further, in wet and stormy weather, or when the
work commences very early in the morning, or continues till a late
hour at night, a glass of spirits will also be served out to the
crew as heretofore, on the requisition of the landing-master."
ROBERT STEVENSON.'


On writing this letter and schedule, a signal was made on the
beacon for the landing-master's boat, which immediately came to the
rock, and the schedule was afterwards stuck up in the tender's
galley.  When sufficient time had been allowed to the crew to
consider of their conduct, a second signal was made for a boat, and
at seven o'clock the writer left the Bell Rock, after a residence
of four successive weeks in the beacon-house.  The first thing
which occupied his attention on board of the tender was to look
round upon the lighthouse, which he saw, with some degree of
emotion and surprise, now vying in height with the beacon-house;
for although he had often viewed it from the extremity of the
western railway on the rock, yet the scene, upon the whole, seemed
far more interesting from the tender's moorings at the distance of
about half a mile.

The Smeaton having just arrived at her moorings with a cargo, a
signal was made for Captain Pool to come on board of the tender,
that he might be at hand to remove from the service any of those
who might persist in their discontented conduct.  One of the two
principal leaders in this affair, the master of one of the praam-
boats, who had also steered the boat which brought the letter to
the beacon, was first called upon deck, and asked if he had read
the statement fixed up in the galley this afternoon, and whether he
was satisfied with it.  He replied that he had read the paper, but
was not satisfied, as it held out no alteration in the allowance,
on which he was immediately ordered into the Smeaton's boat.  The
next man called had but lately entered the service, and, being also
interrogated as to his resolution, he declared himself to be of the
same mind with the praam-master, and was also forthwith ordered
into the boat.  The writer, without calling any more of the seamen,
went forward to the gangway, where they were collected and
listening to what was passing upon deck.  He addressed them at the
hatchway, and stated that two of their companions had just been
dismissed the service and sent on board of the Smeaton to be
conveyed to Arbroath.  He therefore wished each man to consider for
himself how far it would be proper, by any unreasonableness of
conduct, to place themselves in a similar situation, especially as
they were aware that it was optional in him either to dismiss them
or send them on board a man-of-war.  It might appear that much
inconveniency would be felt at the rock by a change of hands at
this critical period, by checking for a time the progress of a
building so intimately connected with the best interests of
navigation; yet this would be but of a temporary nature, while the
injury to themselves might be irreparable.  It was now therefore,
required of any man who, in this disgraceful manner, chose to leave
the service, that he should instantly make his appearance on deck
while the Smeaton's boat was alongside.  But those below having
expressed themselves satisfied with their situation-viz., William
Brown, George Gibb, Alexander Scott, John Dick, Robert Couper,
Alexander Shephard, James Grieve, David Carey, William Pearson,
Stuart Eaton, Alexander Lawrence, and John Spink--were accordingly
considered as having returned to their duty.  This disposition to
mutiny, which had so strongly manifested itself, being now happily
suppressed, Captain Pool got orders to proceed for Arbroath Bay,
and land the two men he had on board, and to deliver the following
letter at the office of the workyard:-


'On board of the Tender off the Bell Rock,
22nd June 1810, eight o'clock p.m.

'DEAR SIR,--A discontented and mutinous spirit having manifested
itself of late among the landing-master's crew, they struck work
to-day and demanded an additional allowance of beer, and I have
found it necessary to dismiss D-d and M-e, who are now sent on
shore with the Smeaton.  You will therefore be so good as to pay
them their wages, including this day only.  Nothing can be more
unreasonable than the conduct of the seamen on this occasion, as
the landing-master's crew not only had their allowance on board of
the tender, but, in the course of this day, they had drawn no fewer
than twenty-four quart pots of beer from the stock of the Patriot
while unloading her. --I remain, yours truly, ROBERT STEVENSON.

'To Mr. LACHLAN KENNEDY,
Bell Rock Office, Arbroath.'


On despatching this letter to Mr. Kennedy, the writer returned to
the beacon about nine o'clock, where this afternoon's business had
produced many conjectures, especially when the Smeaton got under
weigh, instead of proceeding to land her cargo.  The bell on the
beacon being rung, the artificers were assembled on the bridge,
when the affair was explained to them.  He, at the same time,
congratulated them upon the first appearance of mutiny being
happily set at rest by the dismissal of its two principal abettors.

[Sunday, 24th June]

At the rock the landing of the materials and the building
operations of the light-room store went on successfully, and in a
way similar to those of the provision store.  To-day it blew fresh
breezes; but the seamen nevertheless landed twenty-eight stones,
and the artificers built the fifty-eighth and fifty-ninth courses.
The works were visited by Mr. Murdoch, junior, from Messrs. Boulton
and Watt's works of Soho.  He landed just as the bell rung for
prayers, after which the writer enjoyed much pleasure from his very
intelligent conversation; and, having been almost the only stranger
he had seen for some weeks, he parted with him, after a short
interview, with much regret.

[Thursday, 28th June]

Last night the wind had shifted to north-east, and, blowing fresh,
was accompanied with a heavy surf upon the rock.  Towards high-
water it had a very grand and wonderful appearance.  Waves of
considerable magnitude rose as high as the solid or level of the
entrance-door, which, being open to the south-west, was fortunately
to the leeward; but on the windward side the sprays flew like
lightning up the sloping sides of the building; and although the
walls were now elevated sixty-four feet above the rock, and about
fifty-two feet from high-water mark, yet the artificers were
nevertheless wetted, and occasionally interrupted, in their
operations on the top of the walls.  These appearances were, in a
great measure, new at the Bell Rock, there having till of late been
no building to conduct the seas, or object to compare with them.
Although, from the description of the Eddystone Lighthouse, the
mind was prepared for such effects, yet they were not expected to
the present extent in the summer season; the sea being most awful
to-day, whether observed from the beacon or the building.  To
windward, the sprays fell from the height above noticed in the most
wonderful cascades, and streamed down the walls of the building in
froth as white as snow.  To leeward of the lighthouse the collision
or meeting of the waves produced a pure white kind of DRIFT; it
rose about thirty feet in height, like a fine downy mist, which, in
its fall, fell upon the face and hands more like a dry powder than
a liquid substance.  The effect of these seas, as they raged among
the beams and dashed upon the higher parts of the beacon, produced
a temporary tremulous motion throughout the whole fabric, which to
a stranger must have been frightful.

[Sunday, 1st July]

The writer had now been at the Bell Rock since the latter end of
May, or about six weeks, during four of which he had been a
constant inhabitant of the beacon without having been once off the
rock.  After witnessing the laying of the sixty-seventh or second
course of the bedroom apartment, he left the rock with the tender
and went ashore, as some arrangements were to be made for the
future conduct of the works at Arbroath, which were soon to be
brought to a close; the landing-master's crew having, in the
meantime, shifted on board of the Patriot.  In leaving the rock,
the writer kept his eyes fixed upon the lighthouse, which had
recently got into the form of a house, having several tiers or
stories of windows.  Nor was he unmindful of his habitation in the
beacon--now far overtopped by the masonry,--where he had spent
several weeks in a kind of active retirement, making practical
experiment of the fewness of the positive wants of man.  His cabin
measured not more than four feet three inches in breadth on the
floor; and though, from the oblique direction of the beams of the
beacon, it widened towards the top, yet it did not admit of the
full extension of his arms when he stood on the floor; while its
length was little more than sufficient for suspending a cot-bed
during the night, calculated for being triced up to the roof
through the day, which left free room for the admission of
occasional visitants.  His folding table was attached with hinges,
immediately under the small window of the apartment, and his books,
barometer, thermometer, portmanteau, and two or three camp-stools,
formed the bulk of his movables.  His diet being plain, the
paraphernalia of the table were proportionally simple; though
everything had the appearance of comfort, and even of neatness, the
walls being covered with green cloth formed into panels with red
tape, and his bed festooned with curtains of yellow cotton-stuff.
If, in speculating upon the abstract wants of man in such a state
of exclusion, one were reduced to a single book, the Sacred Volume-
-whether considered for the striking diversity of its story, the
morality of its doctrine, or the important truths of its gospel--
would have proved by far the greatest treasure.

[Monday, 2nd July]

In walking over the workyard at Arbroath this morning, the writer
found that the stones of the course immediately under the cornice
were all in hand, and that a week's work would now finish the
whole, while the intermediate courses lay ready numbered and marked
for shipping to the rock.  Among other subjects which had occupied
his attention to-day was a visit from some of the relations of
George Dall, a young man who had been impressed near Dundee in the
month of February last; a dispute had arisen between the
magistrates of that burgh and the Regulating Officer as to his
right of impressing Dall, who was bona fide one of the protected
seamen in the Bell Rock service.  In the meantime, the poor lad was
detained, and ultimately committed to the prison of Dundee, to
remain until the question should be tried before the Court of
Session.  His friends were naturally very desirous to have him
relieved upon bail.  But, as this was only to be done by the
judgment of the Court, all that could be said was that his pay and
allowances should be continued in the same manner as if he had been
upon the sick-list.  The circumstances of Dall's case were briefly
these:- He had gone to see some of his friends in the neighbourhood
of Dundee, in winter, while the works were suspended, having got
leave of absence from Mr. Taylor, who commanded the Bell Rock
tender, and had in his possession one of the Protection Medals.
Unfortunately, however, for Dall, the Regulating Officer thought
proper to disregard these documents, as, according to the strict
and literal interpretation of the Admiralty regulations, a seaman
does not stand protected unless he is actually on board of his
ship, or in a boat belonging to her, or has the Admiralty
protection in his possession.  This order of the Board, however,
cannot be rigidly followed in practice; and therefore, when the
matter is satisfactorily stated to the Regulating Officer, the
impressed man is generally liberated.  But in Dall's case this was
peremptorily refused, and he was retained at the instance of the
magistrates.  The writer having brought the matter under the
consideration of the Commissioners of the Northern Lighthouses,
they authorised it to be tried on the part of the Lighthouse Board,
as one of extreme hardship.  The Court, upon the first hearing,
ordered Dall to be liberated from prison; and the proceedings never
went further.

[Wednesday, 4th July]

Being now within twelve courses of being ready for building the
cornice, measures were taken for getting the stones of it and the
parapet-wall of the light-room brought from Edinburgh, where, as
before noticed, they had been prepared and were in readiness for
shipping.  The honour of conveying the upper part of the
lighthouse, and of landing the last stone of the building on the
rock, was considered to belong to Captain Pool of the Smeaton, who
had been longer in the service than the master of the Patriot.  The
Smeaton was, therefore, now partly loaded with old iron, consisting
of broken railways and other lumber which had been lying about the
rock.  After landing these at Arbroath, she took on board James
Craw, with his horse and cart, which could now be spared at the
workyard, to be employed in carting the stones from Edinburgh to
Leith.  Alexander Davidson and William Kennedy, two careful masons,
were also sent to take charge of the loading of the stones at
Greenside, and stowing them on board of the vessel at Leith.  The
writer also went on board, with a view to call at the Bell Rock and
to take his passage up the Firth of Forth.  The wind, however,
coming to blow very fresh from the eastward, with thick and foggy
weather, it became necessary to reef the mainsail and set the
second jib.  When in the act of making a tack towards the tender,
the sailors who worked the head-sheets were, all of a sudden,
alarmed with the sound of the smith's hammer and anvil on the
beacon, and had just time to put the ship about to save her from
running ashore on the northwestern point of the rock, marked 'James
Craw's Horse.'  On looking towards the direction from whence the
sound came, the building and beacon-house were seen, with
consternation, while the ship was hailed by those on the rock, who
were no less confounded at seeing the near approach of the Smeaton;
and, just as the vessel cleared the danger, the smith and those in
the mortar gallery made signs in token of their happiness at our
fortunate escape.  From this occurrence the writer had an
experimental proof of the utility of the large bells which were in
preparation to be rung by the machinery of the revolving light;
for, had it not been the sound of the smith's anvil, the Smeaton,
in all probability, would have been wrecked upon the rock.  In case
the vessel had struck, those on board might have been safe, having
now the beacon-house, as a place of refuge; but the vessel, which
was going at a great velocity, must have suffered severely, and it
was more than probable that the horse would have been drowned,
there being no means of getting him out of the vessel.  Of this
valuable animal and his master we shall take an opportunity of
saying more in another place.

[Thursday, 5th July]

The weather cleared up in the course of the night, but the wind
shifted to the N.E. and blew very fresh.  From the force of the
wind, being now the period of spring-tides, a very heavy swell was
experienced at the rock.  At two o'clock on the following morning
the people on the beacon were in a state of great alarm about their
safety, as the sea had broke up part of the floor of the mortar
gallery!, which was thus cleared of the lime-casks and other
buoyant articles; and, the alarm-bell being rung, all hands were
called to render what assistance was in their power for the safety
of themselves and the materials.  At this time some would willingly
have left the beacon and gone into the building:  the sea, however,
ran so high that there was no passage along the bridge of
communication, and, when the interior of the lighthouse came to be
examined in the morning, it appeared that great quantities of water
had come over the walls--now eighty feet in height--and had run
down through the several apartments and out at the entrance door.

The upper course of the lighthouse at the workyard of Arbroath was
completed on the 6th, and the whole of the stones were, therefore,
now ready for being shipped to the rock.  From the present state of
the works it was impossible that the two squads of artificers at
Arbroath and the Bell Rock could meet together at this period; and
as in public works of this kind, which had continued for a series
of years, it is not customary to allow the men to separate without
what is termed a "finishing-pint," five guineas were for this
purpose placed at the disposal of Mr. David Logan, clerk of works.
With this sum the stone-cutters at Arbroath had a merry meeting in
their barrack, collected their sweethearts and friends, and
concluded their labours with a dance.  It was remarked, however,
that their happiness on this occasion was not without alloy.  The
consideration of parting and leaving a steady and regular
employment, to go in quest of work and mix with other society,
after having been harmoniously lodged for years together in one
large "guildhall or barrack," was rather painful.

[Friday, 6th July]

While the writer was at Edinburgh he was fortunate enough to meet
with Mrs. Dickson, only daughter of the late celebrated Mr.
Smeaton, whose works at the Eddystone Lighthouse had been of such
essential consequence to the operations at the Bell Rock.  Even her
own elegant accomplishments are identified with her father's work,
she having herself made the drawing of the vignette on the title-
page of the Narrative of the Eddystone Lighthouse.  Every admirer
of the works of that singularly eminent man must also feel an
obligation to her for the very comprehensive and distinct account
given of his life, which is attached to his reports, published, in
three volumes quarto, by the Society of Civil Engineers.  Mrs.
Dickson, being at this time returning from a tour to the Hebrides
and Western Highlands of Scotland, had heard of the Bell Rock
works, and from their similarity to those of the Eddystone was
strongly impressed with a desire of visiting the spot.  But on
inquiring for the writer at Edinburgh, and finding from him that
the upper part of the lighthouse, consisting of nine courses, might
be seen in the immediate vicinity, and also that one of the vessels
which, in compliment to her father's memory, had been named the
Smeaton, might also now be seen in Leith, she considered herself
extremely fortunate; and having first visited the works at
Greenside, she afterwards went to Leith to see the Smeaton, then
loading for the Bell Rock.  On stepping on board, Mrs. Dickson
seemed to be quite overcome with so many concurrent circumstances,
tending in a peculiar manner to revive and enliven the memory of
her departed father, and, on leaving the vessel, she would not be
restrained from presenting the crew with a piece of money.  The
Smeaton had been named spontaneously, from a sense of the
obligation which a public work of the description of the Bell Rock
owed to the labours and abilities of Mr. Smeaton.  The writer
certainly never could have anticipated the satisfaction which he
this day felt in witnessing the pleasure it afforded to the only
representative of this great man's family.

[Friday, 20th July]

The gale from the N.E. still continued so strong, accompanied with
a heavy sea, that the Patriot could not approach her moorings; and
although the tender still kept her station, no landing was made to-
day at the rock.  At high-water it was remarked that the spray rose
to the height of about sixty feet upon the building.  The Smeaton
now lay in Leith loaded, but, the wind and weather being so
unfavourable for her getting down the Firth, she did not sail till
this afternoon.  It may be here proper to notice that the loading
of the centre of the light-room floor, or last principal stone of
the building, did not fail, when put on board, to excite an
interest among those connected with the work.  When the stone was
laid upon the cart to be conveyed to Leith, the seamen fixed an
ensign-staff and flag into the circular hole in the centre of the
stone, and decorated their own hats, and that of James Craw, the
Bell Rock carter, with ribbons; even his faithful and trusty horse
Brassey was ornamented with bows and streamers of various colours.
The masons also provided themselves with new aprons, and in this
manner the cart was attended in its progress to the ship.  When the
cart came opposite the Trinity House of Leith, the officer of that
corporation made his appearance dressed in his uniform, with his
staff of office; and when it reached the harbour, the shipping in
the different tiers where the Smeaton lay hoisted their colours,
manifesting by these trifling ceremonies the interest with which
the progress of this work was regarded by the public, as ultimately
tending to afford safety and protection to the mariner.  The wind
had fortunately shifted to the S.W., and about five o'clock this
afternoon the Smeaton reached the Bell Rock.

[Friday, 27th July]

The artificers had finished the laying of the balcony course,
excepting the centre-stone of the light-room floor, which, like the
centres of the other floors, could not be laid in its place till
after the removal of the foot and shaft of the balance-crane.
During the dinner-hour, when the men were off work the writer
generally took some exercise by walking round the walls when the
rock was under water; but to-day his boundary was greatly enlarged,
for, instead of the narrow wall as a path, he felt no small degree
of pleasure in walking round the balcony and passing out and in at
the space allotted for the light-room door.  In the labours of this
day both the artificers and seamen felt their work to be extremely
easy compared with what it had been for some days past.

[Sunday, 29th July]

Captain Wilson and his crew had made preparations for landing the
last stone, and, as may well be supposed, this was a day of great
interest at the Bell Rock.  'That it might lose none of its
honours,' as he expressed himself, the Hedderwick praam-boat, with
which the first stone of the building had been landed, was
appointed also to carry the last.  At seven o'clock this evening
the seamen hoisted three flags upon the Hedderwick, when the
colours of the Dickie praam-boat, tender, Smeaton, floating light,
beacon-house, and lighthouse were also displayed; and, the weather
being remarkably fine, the whole presented a very gay appearance,
and, in connection with the associations excited, the effect was
very pleasing.  The praam which carried the stone was towed by the
seamen in gallant style to the rock, and, on its arrival, cheers
were given as a finale to the landing department.

[Monday, 30th July]

The ninetieth or last course of the building having been laid to-
day, which brought the masonry to the height of one hundred and two
feet six inches, the lintel of the light-room door, being the
finishing-stone of the exterior walls, was laid with due formality
by the writer, who, at the same time, pronounced the following
benediction:  "May the Great Architect of the Universe, under whose
blessing this perilous work has prospered, preserve it as a guide
to the mariner."

[Friday, 3rd Aug.]

At three p.m., the necessary preparations having been made, the
artificers commenced the completing of the floors of the several
apartments, and at seven o'clock the centre-stone of the light-room
floor was laid, which may be held as finishing the masonry of this
important national edifice.  After going through the usual
ceremonies observed by the brotherhood on occasions of this kind,
the writer, addressing himself to the artificers and seamen who
were present, briefly alluded to the utility of the undertaking as
a monument of the wealth of British commerce, erected through the
spirited measures of the Commissioners of the Northern Lighthouses
by means of the able assistance of those who now surrounded him.
He then took an opportunity of stating that toward those connected
with this arduous work he would ever retain the most heartfelt
regard in all their interests.

[Saturday, 4th Aug.]

When the bell was rung as usual on the beacon this morning, every
one seemed as if he were at a loss what to make of himself.  At
this period the artificers at the rock consisted of eighteen
masons, two joiners, one millwright, one smith, and one mortar-
maker, besides Messrs. Peter Logan and Francis Watt, foremen,
counting in all twenty-five; and matters were arranged for
proceeding to Arbroath this afternoon with all hands.  The Sir
Joseph Banks tender had by this time been afloat, with little
intermission, for six months, during greater part of which the
artificers had been almost constantly off at the rock, and were now
much in want of necessaries of almost every description.  Not a few
had lost different articles of clothing, which had dropped into the
sea from the beacon and building.  Some wanted jackets; others,
from want of hats, wore nightcaps; each was, in fact, more or less
curtailed in his wardrobe, and it must be confessed that at best
the party were but in a very tattered condition.  This morning was
occupied in removing the artificers and their bedding on board of
the tender; and although their personal luggage was easily shifted,
the boats had, nevertheless, many articles to remove from the
beacon-house, and were consequently employed in this service till
eleven a.m.  All hands being collected and just ready to embark, as
the water had nearly overflowed the rock, the writer, in taking
leave, after alluding to the harmony which had ever marked the
conduct of those employed on the Bell Rock, took occasion to
compliment the great zeal, attention, and abilities of Mr. Peter
Logan and Mr. Francis Watt, foremen; Captain James Wilson, landing-
master; and Captain David Taylor, commander of the tender, who, in
their several departments, had so faithfully discharged the duties
assigned to them, often under circumstances the most difficult and
trying.  The health of these gentlemen was drunk with much warmth
of feeling by the artificers and seamen, who severally expressed
the satisfaction they had experienced in acting under them; after
which the whole party left the rock.

In sailing past the floating light mutual compliments were made by
a display of flags between that vessel and the tender; and at five
p.m. the latter vessel entered the harbour of Arbroath, where the
party were heartily welcomed by a numerous company of spectators,
who had collected to see the artificers arrive after so long an
absence from the port.  In the evening the writer invited the
foremen and captains of the service, together with Mr. David Logan,
clerk of works at Arbroath, and Mr. Lachlan Kennedy, engineer's
clerk and book-keeper, and some of their friends, to the principal
inn, where the evening was spent very happily; and after 'His
Majesty's Health' and 'The Commissioners of the Northern
Lighthouses' had been given, 'Stability to the Bell Rock
Lighthouse' was hailed as a standing toast in the Lighthouse
service.

[Sunday, 5th Aug.]

The author has formerly noticed the uniformly decent and orderly
deportment of the artificers who were employed at the Bell Rock
Lighthouse, and to-day, it is believed, they very generally
attended church, no doubt with grateful hearts for the narrow
escapes from personal danger which all of them had more or less
experienced during their residence at the rock.

[Tuesday, 14th Aug.]

The Smeaton sailed to-day at one p.m., having on board sixteen
artificers, with Mr. Peter Logan, together with a supply of
provisions and necessaries, who left the harbour pleased and happy
to find themselves once more afloat in the Bell Rock service.  At
seven o'clock the tender was made fast to her moorings, when the
artificers landed on the rock and took possession of their old
quarters in the beacon-house, with feelings very different from
those of 1807, when the works commenced.

The barometer for some days past had been falling from 29.90, and
to-day it was 29.50, with the wind at N.E., which, in the course of
this day, increased to a strong gale accompanied with a sea which
broke with great violence upon the rock.  At twelve noon the tender
rode very heavily at her moorings, when her chain broke at about
ten fathoms from the ships bows. The kedge-anchor was immediately
let go, to hold her till the floating buoy and broken chain should
be got on board.  But while this was in operation the hawser of the
kedge was chafed through on the rocky bottom and parted, when the
vessel was again adrift.  Most fortunately, however, she cast off
with her head from the rock, and narrowly cleared it, when she
sailed up the Firth of Forth to wait the return of better weather.
The artificers were thus left upon the rock with so heavy a sea
running that it was ascertained to have risen to a height of eighty
feet on the building.  Under such perilous circumstances it would
be difficult to describe the feelings of those who, at this time,
were cooped up in the beacon in so forlorn a situation, with the
sea not only raging under them, but occasionally falling from a
great height upon the roof of their temporary lodging, without even
the attending vessel in view to afford the least gleam of hope in
the event of any accident.  It is true that they now had the
masonry of the lighthouse to resort to, which, no doubt, lessened
the actual danger of their situation; but the building was still
without a roof, and the deadlights, or storm-shutters, not being
yet fitted, the windows of the lower story were stove in and
broken, and at high-water the sea ran in considerable quantities
out at the entrance door.

[Thursday, 16th Aug.]

The gale continues with unabated violence to-day, and the sprays
rise to a still greater height, having been carried over the
masonry of the building, or about ninety feet above the level of
the sea.  At four o'clock this morning it was breaking into the
cook's berth, when he rang the alarm-bell, and all hands turned out
to attend to their personal safety.  The floor of the smith's, or
mortar gallery, was now completely burst up by the force of the
sea, when the whole of the deals and the remaining articles upon
the floor were swept away, such as the cast-iron mortar-tubs, the
iron hearth of the forge, the smith's bellows, and even his anvil
were thrown down upon the rock.  Before the tide rose to its full
height to-day some of the artificers passed along the bridge into
the lighthouse, to observe the effects of the sea upon it, and they
reported that they had felt a slight tremulous motion in the
building when great seas struck it in a certain direction, about
high-water mark.  On this occasion the sprays were again observed
to wet the balcony, and even to come over the parapet wall into the
interior of the light-room.

[Thursday, 23rd Aug.]

The wind being at W.S.W., and the weather more moderate, both the
tender and the Smeaton got to their moorings on the 23rd, when all
hands were employed in transporting the sash-frames from on board
of the Smeaton to the rock.  In the act of setting up one of these
frames upon the bridge, it was unguardedly suffered to lose its
balance, and in saving it from damage Captain Wilson met with a
severe bruise in the groin, on the seat of a gun-shot wound
received in the early part of his life.  This accident laid him
aside for several days.

[Monday, 27th Aug.]

The sash-frames of the light-room, eight in number, and weighing
each 254 pounds, having been got safely up to the top of the
building, were ranged on the balcony in the order in which they
were numbered for their places on the top of the parapet-wall; and
the balance-crane, that useful machine having now lifted all the
heavier articles, was unscrewed and lowered, to use the landing-
master's phrase, 'in mournful silence.'

[Sunday, 2nd Sept.]

The steps of the stair being landed, and all the weightier articles
of the light-room got up to the balcony, the wooden bridge was now
to be removed, as it had a very powerful effect upon the beacon
when a heavy sea struck it, and could not possibly have withstood
the storms of a winter.  Everything having been cleared from the
bridge, and nothing left but the two principal beams with their
horizontal braces, James Glen, at high-water, proceeded with a saw
to cut through the beams at the end next the beacon, which likewise
disengaged their opposite extremity, inserted a few inches into the
building.  The frame was then gently lowered into the water, and
floated off to the Smeaton to be towed to Arbroath, to be applied
as part of the materials in the erection of the lightkeepers'
houses.  After the removal of the bridge, the aspect of things at
the rock was much altered.  The beacon-house and building had both
a naked look to those accustomed to their former appearance; a
curious optical deception was also remarked, by which the
lighthouse seemed to incline from the perpendicular towards the
beacon.  The horizontal rope-ladder before noticed was again
stretched to preserve the communication, and the artificers were
once more obliged to practise the awkward and straddling manner of
their passage between them during 1809.
                
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