Robert Louis Stevenson

Vailima Letters
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At the top of the climb I made my way again to the water-
course; it is here running steady and pretty full; strange 
these intermittencies - and just a little below the main 
stream is quite dry, and all the original brook has gone down 
some lava gallery of the mountain - and just a little further 
below, it begins picking up from the left hand in little 
boggy tributaries, and in the inside of a hundred yards has 
grown a brook again.  The general course of the brook was, I 
guess, S.E.; the valley still very deep and whelmed in wood.  
It seemed a swindle to have made so sheer a climb and still 
find yourself at the bottom of a well.  But gradually the 
thing seemed to shallow, the trees to seem poorer and 
smaller; I could see more and more of the silver sprinkles of 
sky among the foliage, instead of the sombre piling up of 
tree behind tree.  And here I had two scares - first, away up 
on my right hand I heard a bull low; I think it was a bull 
from the quality of the low, which was singularly songful and 
beautiful; the bulls belong to me, but how did I know that 
the bull was aware of that? and my advance guard not being at 
all properly armed, we advanced with great precaution until I 
was satisfied that I was passing eastward of the enemy.  It 
was during this period that a pool of the river suddenly 
boiled up in my face in a little fountain.  It was in a very 
dreary, marshy part among dilapidated trees that you see 
through holes in the trunks of; and if any kind of beast or 
elf or devil had come out of that sudden silver ebullition, I 
declare I do not think I should have been surprised.  It was 
perhaps a thing as curious - a fish, with which these head 
waters of the stream are alive.  They are some of them as 
long as my finger, should be easily caught in these shallows, 
and some day I'll have a dish of them.

Very soon after I came to where the stream collects in 
another banana swamp, with the bananas bearing well.  Beyond, 
the course is again quite dry; it mounts with a sharp turn a 
very steep face of the mountain, and then stops abruptly at 
the lip of a plateau, I suppose the top of Vaea mountain: 
plainly no more springs here - there was no smallest furrow 
of a watercourse beyond - and my task might be said to be 
accomplished.  But such is the animated spirit in the service 
that the whole advance guard expressed a sentiment of 
disappointment that an exploration, so far successfully 
conducted, should come to a stop in the most promising view 
of fresh successes.  And though unprovided either with 
compass or cutlass, it was determined to push some way along 
the plateau, marking our direction by the laborious process 
of bending down, sitting upon, and thus breaking the wild 
cocoanut trees.  This was the less regretted by all from a 
delightful discovery made of a huge banyan growing here in 
the bush, with flying-buttressed flying buttresses, and huge 
arcs of trunk hanging high overhead and trailing down new 
complications of root.  I climbed some way up what seemed the 
original beginning; it was easier to climb than a ship's 
rigging, even rattled; everywhere there was foot-hold and 
hand-hold.  It was judged wise to return and rally the main 
body, who had now been left alone for perhaps forty minutes 
in the bush.

The return was effected in good order, but unhappily I only 
arrived (like so many other explorers) to find my main body 
or rear-guard in a condition of mutiny; the work, it is to be 
supposed, of terror.  It is right I should tell you the Vaea 
has a bad name, an AITU FAFINE - female devil of the woods - 
succubus - haunting it, and doubtless Jack had heard of her; 
perhaps, during my absence, saw her; lucky Jack!  Anyway, he 
was neither to hold nor to bind, and finally, after nearly 
smashing me by accident, and from mere scare and 
insubordination several times, deliberately set in to kill 
me; but poor Jack! the tree he selected for that purpose was 
a banana!  I jumped off and gave him the heavy end of my whip 
over the buttocks!  Then I took and talked in his ear in 
various voices; you should have heard my alto - it was a 
dreadful, devilish note - I KNEW Jack KNEW it was an AITU.  
Then I mounted him again, and he carried me fairly steadily.  
He'll learn yet.  He has to learn to trust absolutely to his 
rider; till he does, the risk is always great in thick bush, 
where a fellow must try different passages, and put back and 
forward, and pick his way by hair's-breadths.

The expedition returned to Vailima in time to receive the 
visit of the R. C. Bishop.  He is a superior man, much above 
the average of priests.


THURSDAY.


Yesterday the same expedition set forth to the southward by 
what is known as Carruthers' Road.  At a fallen tree which 
completely blocks the way, the main body was as before left 
behind, and the advance guard of one now proceeded with the 
exploration.  At the great tree known as MEPI TREE, after 
Maben the surveyor, the expedition struck forty yards due 
west till it struck the top of a steep bank which it 
descended.  The whole bottom of the ravine is filled with 
sharp lava blocks quite unrolled and very difficult and 
dangerous to walk among; no water in the course, scarce any 
sign of water.  And yet surely water must have made this bold 
cutting in the plateau.  And if so, why is the lava sharp?  
My science gave out; but I could not but think it ominous and 
volcanic.  The course of the stream was tortuous, but with a 
resultant direction a little by west of north; the sides the 
whole way exceeding steep, the expedition buried under 
fathoms of foliage.  Presently water appeared in the bottom, 
a good quantity; perhaps thirty or forty cubic feet, with 
pools and waterfalls.  A tree that stands all along the banks 
here must be very fond of water; its roots lie close-packed 
down the stream, like hanks of guts, so as to make often a 
corrugated walk, each root ending in a blunt tuft of 
filaments, plainly to drink water.  Twice there came in small 
tributaries from the left or western side - the whole plateau 
having a smartish inclination to the east; one of the 
tributaries in a handsome little web of silver hanging in the 
forest.  Twice I was startled by birds; one that barked like 
a dog; another that whistled loud ploughman's signals, so 
that I vow I was thrilled, and thought I had fallen among 
runaway blacks, and regretted my cutlass which I had lost and 
left behind while taking bearings.  A good many fishes in the 
brook, and many cray-fish; one of the last with a queer glow-
worm head.  Like all our brooks, the water is pure as air, 
and runs over red stones like rubies.  The foliage along both 
banks very thick and high, the place close, the walking 
exceedingly laborious.  By the time the expedition reached 
the fork, it was felt exceedingly questionable whether the 
MORAL of the force were sufficiently good to undertake more 
extended operations.  A halt was called, the men refreshed 
with water and a bath, and it was decided at a drumhead 
council of war to continue the descent of the Embassy Water 
straight for Vailima, whither the expedition returned, in 
rather poor condition, and wet to the waist, about 4. P.M.

Thus in two days the two main watercourses of this country 
have been pretty thoroughly explored, and I conceive my 
instructions fully carried out.  The main body of the second 
expedition was brought back by another officer despatched for 
that purpose from Vailima.  Casualties: one horse wounded; 
one man bruised; no deaths - as yet, but the bruised man 
feels to-day as if his case was mighty serious.


DEC. 25, '91.


Your note with a very despicable bulletin of health arrived 
only yesterday, the mail being a day behind.  It contained 
also the excellent TIMES article, which was a sight for sore 
eyes.  I am still TABOO; the blessed Germans will have none 
of me; and I only hope they may enjoy the TIMES article.  
'Tis my revenge!  I wish you had sent the letter too, as I 
have no copy, and do not even know what I wrote the last day, 
with a bad headache, and the mail going out.  However, it 
must have been about right, for the TIMES article was in the 
spirit I wished to arouse.  I hope we can get rid of the man 
before it is too late.  He has set the natives to war; but 
the natives, by God's blessing, do not want to fight, and I 
think it will fizzle out - no thanks to the man who tried to 
start it.  But I did not mean to drift into these politics; 
rather to tell you what I have done since I last wrote.

Well, I worked away at my History for a while, and only got 
one chapter done; no doubt this spate of work is pretty low 
now, and will be soon dry; but, God bless you, what a lot I 
have accomplished; WRECKER done, BEACH OF FALESA done, half 
the HISTORY: C'EST ETONNANT.  (I hear from Burlingame, by the 
way, that he likes the end of the WRECKER; 'tis certainly a 
violent, dark yarn with interesting, plain turns of human 
nature), then Lloyd and I went down to live in Haggard's 
rooms, where Fanny presently joined us.  Haggard's rooms are 
in a strange old building - old for Samoa, and has the effect 
of the antique like some strange monastery; I would tell you 
more of it, but I think I'm going to use it in a tale.  The 
annexe close by had its door sealed; poor Dowdney lost at sea 
in a schooner.  The place is haunted.  The vast empty sheds, 
the empty store, the airless, hot, long, low rooms, the claps 
of wind that set everything flying - a strange uncanny house 
to spend Christmas in.


JAN. 1ST, '92.


For a day or two I have sat close and wrought hard at the 
HISTORY, and two more chapters are all but done.  About 
thirty pages should go by this mail, which is not what should 
be, but all I could overtake.  Will any one ever read it?  I 
fancy not; people don't read history for reading, but for 
education and display - and who desires education in the 
history of Samoa, with no population, no past, no future, or 
the exploits of Mataafa, Malietoa, and Consul Knappe?  
Colkitto and Galasp are a trifle to it.  Well, it can't be 
helped, and it must be done, and, better or worse, it's 
capital fun.  There are two to whom I have not been kind - 
German Consul Becker and English Captain Hand, R.N.

On Dec. 30th I rode down with Belle to go to (if you please) 
the Fancy Ball.  When I got to the beach, I found the 
barometer was below 29 degrees, the wind still in the east 
and steady, but a huge offensive continent of clouds and 
vapours forming to leeward.  It might be a hurricane; I dared 
not risk getting caught away from my work, and, leaving 
Belle, returned at once to Vailima.  Next day - yesterday - 
it was a tearer; we had storm shutters up; I sat in my room 
and wrote by lamplight - ten pages, if you please, seven of 
them draft, and some of these compiled from as many as seven 
different and conflicting authorities, so that was a brave 
day's work.  About two a huge tree fell within sixty paces of 
our house; a little after, a second went; and we sent out 
boys with axes and cut down a third, which was too near the 
house, and buckling like a fishing rod.  At dinner we had the 
front door closed and shuttered, the back door open, the lamp 
lit.  The boys in the cook-house were all out at the cook-
house door, where we could see them looking in and smiling.  
Lauilo and Faauma waited on us with smiles.  The excitement 
was delightful.  Some very violent squalls came as we sat 
there, and every one rejoiced; it was impossible to help it; 
a soul of putty had to sing.  All night it blew; the roof was 
continually sounding under missiles; in the morning the 
verandahs were half full of branches torn from the forest.  
There was a last very wild squall about six; the rain, like a 
thick white smoke, flying past the house in volleys, and as 
swift, it seemed, as rifle balls; all with a strange, 
strident hiss, such as I have only heard before at sea, and, 
indeed, thought to be a marine phenomenon.  Since then the 
wind has been falling with a few squalls, mostly rain.  But 
our road is impassable for horses; we hear a schooner has 
been wrecked and some native houses blown down in Apia, where 
Belle is still and must remain a prisoner.  Lucky I returned 
while I could!  But the great good is this; much bread-fruit 
and bananas have been destroyed; if this be general through 
the islands, famine will be imminent; and WHOEVER BLOWS THE 
COALS, THERE CAN BE NO WAR.  Do I then prefer a famine to a 
war? you ask.  Not always, but just now.  I am sure the 
natives do not want a war; I am sure a war would benefit no 
one but the white officials, and I believe we can easily meet 
the famine - or at least that it can be met.  That would give 
our officials a legitimate opportunity to cover their past 
errors.


JAN. 2ND.


I woke this morning to find the blow quite ended.  The heaven 
was all a mottled gray; even the east quite colourless; the 
downward slope of the island veiled in wafts of vapour, blue 
like smoke; not a leaf stirred on the tallest tree; only, 
three miles away below me on the barrier reef, I could see 
the individual breakers curl and fall, and hear their 
conjunct roaring rise, as it still rises at 1 P.M., like the 
roar of a thoroughfare close by.  I did a good morning's 
work, correcting and clarifying my draft, and have now 
finished for press eight chapters, ninety-one pages, of this 
piece of journalism.  Four more chapters, say fifty pages, 
remain to be done; I should gain my wager and finish this 
volume in three months, that is to say, the end should leave 
me per February mail; I cannot receive it back till the mail 
of April.  Yes, it can be out in time; pray God that it be in 
time to help.

How do journalists fetch up their drivel?  I aim only at 
clearness and the most obvious finish, positively at no 
higher degree of merit, not even at brevity - I am sure it 
could have been all done, with double the time, in two-thirds 
of the space.  And yet it has taken me two months to write 
45,500 words; and, be damned to my wicked prowess, I am proud 
of the exploit!  The real journalist must be a man not of 
brass only, but bronze.  Chapter IX. gapes for me, but I 
shrink on the margin, and go on chattering to you.  This last 
part will be much less offensive (strange to say) to the 
Germans.  It is Becker they will never forgive me for; Knappe 
I pity and do not dislike; Becker I scorn and abominate.  
Here is the tableau.  I. Elements of Discord: Native.  II. 
Elements of Discord: Foreign.   III. The Sorrows of Laupepa.  
IV. Brandeis.  V. The Battle of Matautu.  VI. Last Exploits 
of Becker.  VII. The Samoan Camps.  VIII. Affairs of Lautii 
and Fangalii.  IX. 'FUROR CONSULARIS.'  X. The Hurricane.  
XI. Stuebel Recluse.  XII. The Present Government.  I 
estimate the whole roughly at 70,000 words.  Should anybody 
ever dream of reading it, it would be found amusing. 
70000/300=233 printed pages; a respectable little five-bob 
volume, to bloom unread in shop windows.  After that, I'll 
have a spank at fiction.  And rest?  I shall rest in the 
grave, or when I come to Italy.  If only the public will 
continue to support me!  I lost my chance not dying; there 
seems blooming little fear of it now.  I worked close on five 
hours this morning; the day before, close on nine; and unless 
I finish myself off with this letter, I'll have another hour 
and a half, or AIBLINS TWA, before dinner.  Poor man, how you 
must envy me, as you hear of these orgies of work, and you 
scarce able for a letter.  But Lord, Colvin, how lucky the 
situations are not reversed, for I have no situation, nor am 
fit for any.  Life is a steigh brae.  Here, have at Knappe, 
and no more clavers!


3RD.


There was never any man had so many irons in the fire, except 
Jim Pinkerton.  I forgot to mention I have the most gallant 
suggestion from Lang, with an offer of MS. authorities, which 
turns my brain.  It's all about the throne of Poland and 
buried treasure in the Mackay country, and Alan Breck can 
figure there in glory.

Yesterday, J. and I set off to Blacklock's (American Consul) 
who lives not far from that little village I have so often 
mentioned as lying between us and Apia.  I had some questions 
to ask him for my History; thence we must proceed to Vailele, 
where I had also to cross-examine the plantation manager 
about the battle there.  We went by a track I had never 
before followed down the hill to Vaisigano, which flows here 
in a deep valley, and was unusually full, so that the horses 
trembled in the ford.  The whole bottom of the valley is full 
of various streams posting between strips of forest with a 
brave sound of waters.  In one place we had a glimpse of a 
fall some way higher up, and then sparkling in sunlight in 
the midst of the green valley.  Then up by a winding path 
scarce accessible to a horse for steepness, to the other 
side, and the open cocoanut glades of the plantation.  Here 
we rode fast, did a mighty satisfactory afternoon's work at 
the plantation house, and still faster back.  On the return 
Jack fell with me, but got up again; when I felt him 
recovering I gave him his head, and he shoved his foot 
through the rein; I got him by the bit however, and all was 
well; he had mud over all his face, but his knees were not 
broken.  We were scarce home when the rain began again; that 
was luck.  It is pouring now in torrents; we are in the 
height of the bad season.  Lloyd leaves along with this 
letter on a change to San Francisco; he had much need of it, 
but I think this will brace him up.  I am, as you see, a 
tower of strength.  I can remember riding not so far and not 
near so fast when I first came to Samoa, and being shattered 
next day with fatigue; now I could not tell I have done 
anything; have re-handled my battle of Fangalii according to 
yesterday's information - four pages rewritten; and written 
already some half-dozen pages of letters.

I observe with disgust that while of yore, when I own I was 
guilty, you never spared me abuse, but now, when I am so 
virtuous, where is the praise?  Do admit that I have become 
an excellent letter-writer - at least to you, and that your 
ingratitude is imbecile. - Yours ever,

R. L. S.



CHAPTER XV



JAN 31ST, '92.


MY DEAR COLVIN, - No letter at all from you, and this scratch 
from me!  Here is a year that opens ill.  Lloyd is off to 
'the coast' sick - THE COAST means California over most of 
the Pacific - I have been down all month with influenza, and 
am just recovering - I am overlaid with proofs, which I am 
just about half fit to attend to.  One of my horses died this 
morning, and another is now dying on the front lawn - Lloyd's 
horse and Fanny's.  Such is my quarrel with destiny.  But I 
am mending famously, come and go on the balcony, have 
perfectly good nights, and though I still cough, have no 
oppression and no hemorrhage and no fever.  So if I can find 
time and courage to add no more, you will know my news is not 
altogether of the worst; a year or two ago, and what a state 
I should have been in now!  Your silence, I own, rather 
alarms me.  But I tell myself you have just miscarried; had 
you been too ill to write, some one would have written me.  
Understand, I send this brief scratch not because I am unfit 
to write more, but because I have 58 galleys of the WRECKER 
and 102 of the BEACH OF FALESA to get overhauled somehow or 
other in time for the mail, and for three weeks I have not 
touched a pen with my finger.


FEB. 1ST.


The second horse is still alive, but I still think dying.  
The first was buried this morning.  My proofs are done; it 
was a rough two days of it, but done.  CONSUMMATUM EST; NA 
UMA.  I believe the WRECKER ends well; if I know what a good 
yarn is, the last four chapters make a good yarn - but pretty 
horrible.  THE BEACH OF FALESA I still think well of, but it 
seems it's immoral and there's a to-do, and financially it 
may prove a heavy disappointment.  The plaintive request sent 
to me, to make the young folks married properly before 'that 
night,' I refused; you will see what would be left of the 
yarn, had I consented.  This is a poison bad world for the 
romancer, this Anglo-Saxon world; I usually get out of it by 
not having any women in it at all; but when I remember I had 
the TREASURE OF FRANCHARD refused as unfit for a family 
magazine, I feel despair weigh upon my wrists.

As I know you are always interested in novels, I must tell 
you that a new one is now entirely planned.  It is to be 
called SOPHIA SCARLET, and is in two parts.  Part I. The 
Vanilla Planter.  Part II. The Overseers.  No chapters, I 
think; just two dense blocks of narrative, the first of which 
is purely sentimental, but the second has some rows and 
quarrels, and winds up with an explosion, if you please!  I 
am just burning to get at Sophia, but I MUST do this Samoan 
journalism - that's a cursed duty.  The first part of Sophia, 
bar the first twenty or thirty pages, writes itself; the 
second is more difficult, involving a good many characters - 
about ten, I think - who have to be kept all moving, and give 
the effect of a society.  I have three women to handle, out 
and well-away! but only Sophia is in full tone.  Sophia and 
two men, Windermere, the Vanilla Planter, who dies at the end 
of Part I., and Rainsforth, who only appears in the beginning 
of Part II.  The fact is, I blush to own it, but Sophia is a 
REGULAR NOVEL; heroine and hero, and false accusation, and 
love, and marriage, and all the rest of it - all planted in a 
big South Sea plantation run by ex-English officers - A LA 
Stewart's plantation in Tahiti.  There is a strong 
undercurrent of labour trade, which gives it a kind of Uncle 
Tom flavour, ABSIT OMEN!  The first start is hard; it is hard 
to avoid a little tedium here, but I think by beginning with 
the arrival of the three Miss Scarlets hot from school and 
society in England, I may manage to slide in the information.  
The problem is exactly a Balzac one, and I wish I had his 
fist - for I have already a better method - the kinetic, 
whereas he continually allowed himself to be led into the 
static.  But then he had the fist, and the most I can hope is 
to get out of it with a modicum of grace and energy, but for 
sure without the strong impression, the full, dark brush.  
Three people have had it, the real creator's brush: Scott, 
see much of THE ANTIQUARY and THE HEART OF MIDLOTHIAN 
(especially all round the trial, before, during, and after) - 
Balzac - and Thackeray in VANITY FAIR.  Everybody else either 
paints THIN, or has to stop to paint, or paints excitedly, so 
that you see the author skipping before his canvas.  Here is 
a long way from poor Sophia Scarlet!

This day is published
SOPHIA SCARLET
By
ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON.



CHAPTER XVI



FEB. 1892.


MY DEAR COLVIN, - This has been a busyish month for a sick 
man.  First, Faauma - the bronze candlestick, whom otherwise 
I called my butler - bolted from the bed and bosom of 
Lafaele, the Archangel Hercules, prefect of the cattle.  
There was the deuce to pay, and Hercules was inconsolable, 
and immediately started out after a new wife, and has had one 
up on a visit, but says she has 'no conversation'; and I 
think he will take back the erring and possibly repentant 
candlestick; whom we all devoutly prefer, as she is not only 
highly decorative, but good-natured, and if she does little 
work makes no rows.  I tell this lightly, but it really was a 
heavy business; many were accused of complicity, and Rafael 
was really very sorry.  I had to hold beds of justice - 
literally - seated in my bed and surrounded by lying Samoans 
seated on the floor; and there were many picturesque and 
still inexplicable passages.  It is hard to reach the truth 
in these islands.

The next incident overlapped with this.  S. and Fanny found 
three strange horses in the paddock: for long now the boys 
have been forbidden to leave their horses here one hour 
because our grass is over-grazed.  S. came up with the news, 
and I saw I must now strike a blow.  'To the pound with the 
lot,' said I.  He proposed taking the three himself, but I 
thought that too dangerous an experiment, said I should go 
too, and hurried into my boots so as to show decision taken, 
in the necessary interviews.  They came of course - the 
interviews - and I explained what I was going to do at huge 
length, and stuck to my guns.  I am glad to say the natives, 
with their usual (purely speculative) sense of justice highly 
approved the step after reflection.  Meanwhile off went S. 
and I with the three CORPORA DELICTI; and a good job I went!  
Once, when our circus began to kick, we thought all was up; 
but we got them down all sound in wind and limb.  I judged I 
was much fallen off from my Elliott forefathers, who managed 
this class of business with neatness and despatch.  Half-way 
down it came on to rain tropic style, and I came back from my 
outing drenched liked a drowned man - I was literally blinded 
as I came back among these sheets of water; and the 
consequence was I was laid down with diarrhoea and 
threatenings of Samoa colic for the inside of another week.

I have a confession to make.  When I was sick I tried to get 
to work to finish that Samoa thing, wouldn't go; and at last, 
in the colic time, I slid off into DAVID BALFOUR, some 50 
pages of which are drafted, and like me well.  Really I think 
it is spirited; and there's a heroine that (up to now) seems 
to have attractions: ABSIT OMEN!  David, on the whole, seems 
excellent.  Alan does not come in till the tenth chapter, and 
I am only at the eighth, so I don't know if I can find him 
again; but David is on his feet, and doing well, and very 
much in love, and mixed up with the Lord Advocate and the 
(untitled) Lord Lovat, and all manner of great folk.  And the 
tale interferes with my eating and sleeping.  The join is 
bad; I have not thought to strain too much for continuity; so 
this part be alive, I shall be content.  But there's no doubt 
David seems to have changed his style, de'il ha'e him!  And 
much I care, if the tale travel!


FRIDAY, FEB. ?? 19TH?


Two incidents to-day which I must narrate.  After lunch, it 
was raining pitilessly; we were sitting in my mother's 
bedroom, and I was reading aloud Kinglake's Charge of the 
Light Brigade, and we had just been all seized by the horses 
aligning with Lord George Paget, when a figure appeared on 
the verandah; a little, slim, small figure of a lad, with 
blond (I.E. limed) hair, a propitiatory smile, and a nose 
that alone of all his features grew pale with anxiety.  'I 
come here stop,' was about the outside of his English; and I 
began at once to guess that he was a runaway labourer, and 
that the bush-knife in his hand was stolen.  It proved he had 
a mate, who had lacked his courage, and was hidden down the 
road; they had both made up their minds to run away, and had 
'come here stop.'  I could not turn out the poor rogues, one 
of whom showed me marks on his back, into the drenching 
forest; I could not reason with them, for they had not enough 
English, and not one of our boys spoke their tongue; so I 
bade them feed and sleep here to-night, and to-morrow I must 
do what the Lord shall bid me.

Near dinner time, I was told that a friend of Lafaele's had 
found human remains in my bush.  After dinner, a figure was 
seen skulking across towards the waterfall, which produced 
from the verandah a shout, in my most stentorian tones: 'O AI 
LE INGOA?' literally 'Who the name?' which serves here for 
'What's your business?' as well.  It proved to be Lafaele's 
friend; I bade a kitchen boy, Lauilo, go with him to see the 
spot, for though it had ceased raining, the whole island ran 
and dripped.  Lauilo was willing enough, but the friend of 
the archangel demurred; he had too much business; he had no 
time.  'All right,' I said, 'you too much frightened, I go 
along,' which of course produced the usual shout of delight 
from all those who did not require to go.  I got into my 
Saranac snow boots.  Lauilo got a cutlass; Mary Carter, our 
Sydney maid, joined the party for a lark, and off we set.  I 
tell you our guide kept us moving; for the dusk fell swift.  
Our woods have an infamous reputation at the best, and our 
errand (to say the least of it) was grisly.  At last 'they 
found the remains; they were old, which was all I cared to be 
sure of; it seemed a strangely small 'pickle-banes' to stand 
for a big, flourishing, buck-islander, and their situation in 
the darkening and dripping bush was melancholy.  All at once, 
I found there was a second skull, with a bullet-hole I could 
have stuck my two thumbs in - say anybody else's one thumb.  
My Samoans said it could not be, there were not enough bones; 
I put the two pieces of skull together, and at last convinced 
them.  Whereupon, in a flash, they found the not unromantic 
explanation.  This poor brave had succeeded in the height of 
a Samoan warriors ambition; he had taken a head, which he was 
never destined to show to his applauding camp.  Wounded 
himself, he had crept here into the bush to die with his 
useless trophy by his side.  His date would be about fifteen 
years ago, in the great battle between Laupepa and Talavou, 
which took place on My Land, Sir.  To-morrow we shall bury 
the bones and fire a salute in honour of unfortunate courage.

Do you think I have an empty life? or that a man jogging to 
his club has so much to interest and amuse him? - touch and 
try him too, but that goes along with the others: no pain, no 
pleasure, is the iron law.  So here I stop again, and leave, 
as I left yesterday, my political business untouched.  And 
lo! here comes my pupil, I believe, so I stop in time.


MARCH 2ND.


Since I last wrote, fifteen chapters of DAVID BALFOUR have 
been drafted, and five TIRES AU CLAIR.  I think it pretty 
good; there's a blooming maiden that costs anxiety - she is 
as virginal as billy; but David seems there and alive, and 
the Lord Advocate is good, and so I think is an episodic 
appearance of the Master of Lovat.  In Chapter XVII. I shall 
get David abroad - Alan went already in Chapter XII.  The 
book should be about the length of KIDNAPPED; this early part 
of it, about D.'s evidence in the Appin case, is more of a 
story than anything in KIDNAPPED, but there is no doubt there 
comes a break in the middle, and the tale is practically in 
two divisions.  In the first James More and the M'Gregors, 
and Catriona, only show; in the second, the Appin case being 
disposed of, and James Stewart hung, they rule the roast and 
usurp the interest - should there be any left.  Why did I 
take up DAVID BALFOUR?  I don't know.  A sudden passion.

Monday, I went down in the rain with a colic to take the 
chair at a public meeting; dined with Haggard; sailed off to 
my meeting, and fought with wild beasts for three anxious 
hours.  All was lost that any sensible man cared for, but the 
meeting did not break up - thanks a good deal to R. L. S. - 
and the man who opposed my election, and with whom I was all 
the time wrangling, proposed the vote of thanks to me with a 
certain handsomeness; I assure you I had earned it . . .  
Haggard and the great Abdul, his high-caste Indian servant, 
imported by my wife, were sitting up for me with supper, and 
I suppose it was twelve before I got to bed.  Tuesday 
raining, my mother rode down, and we went to the Consulate to 
sign a Factory and Commission.  Thence, I to the lawyers, to 
the printing office, and to the Mission.  It was dinner time 
when I returned home.

This morning, our cook-boy having suddenly left - injured 
feelings - the archangel was to cook breakfast.  I found him 
lighting the fire before dawn; his eyes blazed, he had no 
word of any language left to use, and I saw in him (to my 
wonder) the strongest workings of gratified ambition.  
Napoleon was no more pleased to sign his first treaty with 
Austria than was Lafaele to cook that breakfast.  All 
morning, when I had hoped to be at this letter, I slept like 
one drugged and you must take this (which is all I can give 
you) for what it is worth -


D.B.

MEMOIRS OF HIS ADVENTURES AT HOME AND ABROAD.  THE SECOND 
PART; WHEREIN ARE SET FORTH THE MISFORTUNES IN WHICH HE WAS 
INVOLVED UPON THE APPIN MURDER; HIS TROUBLES WITH LORD 
ADVOCATE PRESTONGRANGE; CAPTIVITY ON THE BASS ROCK; JOURNEY 
INTO FRANCE AND HOLLAND; AND SINGULAR RELATIONS WITH JAMES 
MORE DRUMMOND OR MACGREGOR, A SON OF THE NOTORIOUS ROB ROY.



Chapters. - I. A Beggar on Horseback.  II. The Highland 
Writer.  III. I go to Pilrig.  IV. Lord Advocate 
Prestongrange.  V. Butter and Thunder.  VI. I make a fault in 
honour.  VII. The Bravo.  VIII. The Heather on Fire.  IX. I 
begin to be haunted with a red-headed man.  X. The Wood by 
Silvermills.  XI. On the march again with Alan.  XII. Gillane 
Sands.  XIII. The Bass Rock.  XIV. Black Andie's Tale of Tod 
Lapraik.  XV. I go to Inveraray.

That is it, as far as drafted.  Chapters IV. V. VII. IX. and 
XIV. I am specially pleased with; the last being an 
episodical bogie story about the Bass Rock told there by the 
Keeper.



CHAPTER XVII



MARCH 9TH.


MY DEAR S. C., - Take it not amiss if this is a wretched 
letter.  I am eaten up with business.  Every day this week I 
have had some business impediment - I am even now waiting a 
deputation of chiefs about the road - and my precious morning 
was shattered by a polite old scourge of a FAIPULE - 
parliament man - come begging.  All the time DAVID BALFOUR is 
skelping along.  I began it the 13th of last month; I have 
now 12 chapters, 79 pages ready for press, or within an ace, 
and, by the time the month is out, one-half should be 
completed, and I'll be back at drafting the second half.  
What makes me sick is to think of Scott turning out GUY 
MANNERING in three weeks!  What a pull of work: heavens, what 
thews and sinews!  And here am I, my head spinning from 
having only re-written seven not very difficult pages - and 
not very good when done.  Weakling generation.  It makes me 
sick of myself, to make such a fash and bobbery over a rotten 
end of an old nursery yarn, not worth spitting on when done.  
Still, there is no doubt I turn out my work more easily than 
of yore, and I suppose I should be singly glad of that.  And 
if I got my book done in six weeks, seeing it will be about 
half as long as a Scott, and I have to write everything 
twice, it would be about the same rate of industry.  It is my 
fair intention to be done with it in three months, which 
would make me about one-half the man Sir Walter was for 
application and driving the dull pen.  Of the merit we shall 
not talk; but I don't think Davie is WITHOUT merit.


MARCH 12TH.


And I have this day triumphantly finished 15 chapters, 100 
pages - being exactly one-half (as near as anybody can guess) 
of DAVID BALFOUR; the book to be about a fifth as long again 
(altogether) as TREASURE ISLAND: could I but do the second 
half in another month!  But I can't, I fear; I shall have 
some belated material arriving by next mail, and must go 
again at the History.  Is it not characteristic of my broken 
tenacity of mind, that I should have left Davie Balfour some 
five years in the British Linen Company's Office, and then 
follow him at last with such vivacity?  But I leave you 
again; the last (15th) chapter ought to be re-wrote, or part 
of it, and I want the half completed in the month, and the 
month is out by midnight; though, to be sure, last month was 
February, and I might take grace.  These notes are only to 
show I hold you in mind, though I know they can have no 
interest for man or God or animal.

I should have told you about the Club.  We have been asked to 
try and start a sort of weekly ball for the half-castes and 
natives, ourselves to be the only whites; and we consented, 
from a very heavy sense of duty, and with not much hope.  Two 
nights ago we had twenty people up, received them in the 
front verandah, entertained them on cake and lemonade, and I 
made a speech - embodying our proposals, or conditions, if 
you like - for I suppose thirty minutes.  No joke to speak to 
such an audience, but it is believed I was thoroughly 
intelligible.  I took the plan of saying everything at least 
twice in a different form of words, so that if the one 
escaped my hearers, the other might be seized.  One white man 
came with his wife, and was kept rigorously on the front 
verandah below!  You see what a sea of troubles this is like 
to prove; but it is the only chance - and when it blows up, 
it must blow up!  I have no more hope in anything than a dead 
frog; I go into everything with a composed despair, and don't 
mind - just as I always go to sea with the conviction I am to 
be drowned, and like it before all other pleasures.  But you 
should have seen the return voyage, when nineteen horses had 
to be found in the dark, and nineteen bridles, all in a 
drench of rain, and the club, just constituted as such, 
sailed away in the wet, under a cloudy moon like a bad 
shilling, and to descend a road through the forest that was 
at that moment the image of a respectable mountain brook.  My 
wife, who is president WITH POWER TO EXPEL, had to begin her 
functions. . . .


25TH MARCH.


Heaven knows what day it is, but I am ashamed, all the more 
as your letter from Bournemouth of all places - poor old 
Bournemouth! - is to hand, and contains a statement of 
pleasure in my letters which I wish I could have rewarded 
with a long one.  What has gone on?  A vast of affairs, of a 
mingled, strenuous, inconclusive, desultory character; much 
waste of time, much riding to and fro, and little transacted 
or at least peracted.

Let me give you a review of the present state of our live 
stock. - Six boys in the bush; six souls about the house.  
Talolo, the cook, returns again to-day, after an absence 
which has cost me about twelve hours of riding, and I suppose 
eight hours' solemn sitting in council.  'I am sorry indeed 
for the Chief Justice of Samoa,' I said; 'it is more than I 
am fit for to be Chief Justice of Vailima.' - Lauilo is 
steward.  Both these are excellent servants; we gave a 
luncheon party when we buried the Samoan bones, and I assure 
you all was in good style, yet we never interfered.  The food 
was good, the wine and dishes went round as by mechanism. - 
Steward's assistant and washman Arrick, a New Hebridee black 
boy, hired from the German firm; not so ugly as most, but not 
pretty neither; not so dull as his sort are, but not quite a 
Crichton.  When he came first, he ate so much of our good 
food that he got a prominent belly.  Kitchen assistant, Tomas 
(Thomas in English), a Fiji man, very tall and handsome, 
moving like a marionette with sudden bounds, and rolling his 
eyes with sudden effort. - Washerwoman and precentor, Helen, 
Tomas's wife.  This is our weak point; we are ashamed of 
Helen; the cook-house blushes for her; they murmur there at 
her presence.  She seems all right; she is not a bad-looking, 
strapping wench, seems chaste, is industrious, has an 
excellent taste in hymns - you should have heard her read one 
aloud the other day, she marked the rhythm with so much 
gloating, dissenter sentiment.  What is wrong, then? says 
you.  Low in your ear - and don't let the papers get hold of 
it - she is of no family.  None, they say; literally a common 
woman.  Of course, we have out-islanders, who MAY be 
villeins; but we give them the benefit of the doubt, which is 
impossible with Helen of Vailima; our blot, our pitted speck.  
The pitted speck I have said is our precentor.  It is always 
a woman who starts Samoan song; the men who sing second do 
not enter for a bar or two.  Poor, dear Faauma, the unchaste, 
the extruded Eve of our Paradise, knew only two hymns; but 
Helen seems to know the whole repertory, and the morning 
prayers go far more lively in consequence. - Lafaele, provost 
of the cattle.  The cattle are Jack, my horse, quite 
converted, my wife rides him now, and he is as steady as a 
doctor's cob; Tifaga Jack, a circus horse, my mother's 
piebald, bought from a passing circus; Belle's mare, now in 
childbed or next door, confound the slut!  Musu - amusingly 
translated the other day 'don't want to,' literally cross, 
but always in the sense of stubbornness and resistance - my 
wife's little dark-brown mare, with a white star on her 
forehead, whom I have been riding of late to steady her - she 
has no vices, but is unused, skittish and uneasy, and wants a 
lot of attention and humouring; lastly (of saddle horses) 
Luna - not the Latin MOON, the Hawaiian OVERSEER, but it's 
pronounced the same - a pretty little mare too, but scarce at 
all broken, a bad bucker, and has to be ridden with a stock-
whip and be brought back with her rump criss-crossed like a 
clan tartan; the two cart horses, now only used with pack-
saddles; two cows, one in the straw (I trust) to-morrow, a 
third cow, the Jersey - whose milk and temper are alike 
subjects of admiration - she gives good exercise to the 
farming saunterer, and refreshes him on his return with 
cream; two calves, a bull, and a cow; God knows how many 
ducks and chickens, and for a wager not even God knows how 
many cats; twelve horses, seven horses, five kine: is not 
this Babylon the Great which I have builded?  Call it 
SUBPRIORSFORD.

Two nights ago the club had its first meeting; only twelve 
were present, but it went very well.  I was not there, I had 
ridden down the night before after dinner on my endless 
business, took a cup of tea in the Mission like an ass, then 
took a cup of coffee like a fool at Haggard's, then fell into 
a discussion with the American Consul . . . I went to bed at 
Haggard's, came suddenly broad awake, and lay sleepless the 
live night.  It fell chill, I had only a sheet, and had to 
make a light and range the house for a cover - I found one in 
the hall, a macintosh.  So back to my sleepless bed, and to 
lie there till dawn.  In the morning I had a longish ride to 
take in a day of a blinding, staggering sun, and got home by 
eleven, our luncheon hour, with my head rather swimmy; the 
only time I have FEARED the sun since I was in Samoa.  
However, I got no harm, but did not go to the club, lay off, 
lazied, played the pipe, and read - a novel by James Payn - 
sometimes quite interesting, and in one place really very 
funny with the quaint humour of the man.  Much interested the 
other day.  As I rode past a house, I saw where a Samoan had 
written a word on a board, and there was an A, perfectly 
formed, but upside down.  You never saw such a thing in 
Europe; but it is as common as dirt in Polynesia.  Men's 
names are tattooed on the forearm; it is common to find a 
subverted letter tattooed there.  Here is a tempting problem 
for psychologists.

I am now on terms again with the German Consulate, I know not 
for how long; not, of course, with the President, which I 
find a relief; still, with the Chief Justice and the English 
Consul.  For Haggard, I have a genuine affection; he is a 
loveable man.

Wearyful man!  'Here is the yarn of Loudon Dodd, NOT AS HE 
TOLD IT, BUT AS IT WAS AFTERWARDS WRITTEN.'  These words were 
left out by some carelessness, and I think I have been thrice 
tackled about them.  Grave them in your mind and wear them on 
your forehead.

The Lang story will have very little about the treasure; THE 
MASTER will appear; and it is to a great extent a tale of 
Prince Charlie AFTER the '45, and a love story forbye: the 
hero is a melancholy exile, and marries a young woman who 
interests the prince, and there is the devil to pay.  I think 
the Master kills him in a duel, but don't know yet, not 
having yet seen my second heroine.  No - the Master doesn't 
kill him, they fight, he is wounded, and the Master plays 
DEUS EX MACHINA.  I THINK just now of calling it THE TAIL OF 
THE RACE; no - heavens!  I never saw till this moment - but 
of course nobody but myself would ever understand Mill-Race, 
they would think of a quarter-mile.  So - I am nameless 
again.  My melancholy young man is to be quite a Romeo.  Yes, 
I'll name the book from him: DYCE OF YTHAN - pronounce 
Eethan.


Dyce of Ythan
by R. L. S.


O, Shovel - Shovel waits his turn, he and his ancestors.  I 
would have tackled him before, but my STATE TRIALS have never 
come.  So that I have now quite planned:-


Dyce of Ythan. (Historical, 1750.)
Sophia Scarlet. (To-day.)
The Shovels of Newton French. (Historical, 1650 to 1830.)

And quite planned and part written:-

The Pearl Fisher. (To-day.) (With Lloyd a machine.)
David Balfour. (Historical, 1751.)

And, by a strange exception for R. L. S., all in the third 
person except D. B.

I don't know what day this is now (the 29th), but I have 
finished my two chapters, ninth and tenth, of SAMOA in time 
for the mail, and feel almost at peace.  The tenth was the 
hurricane, a difficult problem; it so tempted one to be 
literary; and I feel sure the less of that there is in my 
little handbook, the more chance it has of some utility.  
Then the events are complicated, seven ships to tell of, and 
sometimes three of them together; O, it was quite a job.  But 
I think I have my facts pretty correct, and for once, in my 
sickening yarn, they are handsome facts: creditable to all 
concerned; not to be written of - and I should think, scarce 
to be read - without a thrill.  I doubt I have got no 
hurricane into it, the intricacies of the yarn absorbing me 
too much.  But there - it's done somehow, and time presses 
hard on my heels.  The book, with my best expedition, may 
come just too late to be of use.  In which case I shall have 
made a handsome present of some months of my life for nothing 
and to nobody.  Well, through Her the most ancient heavens 
are fresh and strong.


30TH.


After I had written you, I re-read my hurricane, which is 
very poor; the life of the journalist is hard, another couple 
of writings and I could make a good thing, I believe, and it 
must go as it is!  But, of course, this book is not written 
for honour and glory, and the few who will read it may not 
know the difference.  Very little time.  I go down with the 
mail shortly, dine at the Chinese restaurant, and go to the 
club to dance with islandresses.  Think of my going out once 
a week to dance.

Politics are on the full job again, and we don't know what is 
to come next.  I think the whole treaty RAJ seems quite 
played out!  They have taken to bribing the FAIPULE men 
(parliament men) to stay in Mulinuu, we hear; but I have not 
yet sifted the rumour.  I must say I shall be scarce 
surprised if it prove true; these rumours have the knack of 
being right. - Our weather this last month has been 
tremendously hot, not by the thermometer, which sticks at 86 
degrees, but to the sensation: no rain, no wind, and this the 
storm month.  It looks ominous, and is certainly 
disagreeable.

No time to finish,
Yours ever,
R. L. S.



CHAPTER XVIII



MAY 1ST. 1892.


MY DEAR COLVIN, - As I rode down last night about six, I saw 
a sight I must try to tell you of.  In front of me, right 
over the top of the forest into which I was descending was a 
vast cloud.  The front of it accurately represented the 
somewhat rugged, long-nosed, and beetle-browed profile of a 
man, crowned by a huge Kalmuck cap; the flesh part was of a 
heavenly pink, the cap, the moustache, the eyebrows were of a 
bluish gray; to see this with its childish exactitude of 
design and colour, and hugeness of scale - it covered at 
least 25 degrees - held me spellbound.  As I continued to 
gaze, the expression began to change; he had the exact air of 
closing one eye, dropping his jaw, and drawing down his nose; 
had the thing not been so imposing, I could have smiled; and 
then almost in a moment, a shoulder of leaden-coloured bank 
drove in front and blotted it.  My attention spread to the 
rest of the cloud, and it was a thing to worship.  It rose 
from the horizon, and its top was within thirty degrees of 
the zenith; the lower parts were like a glacier in shadow, 
varying from dark indigo to a clouded white in exquisite 
gradations.  The sky behind, so far as I could see, was all 
of a blue already enriched and darkened by the night, for the 
hill had what lingered of the sunset.  But the top of my 
Titanic cloud flamed in broad sunlight, with the most 
excellent softness and brightness of fire and jewels, 
enlightening all the world.  It must have been far higher 
than Mount Everest, and its glory, as I gazed up at it out of 
the night, was beyond wonder.  Close by rode the little 
crescent moon; and right over its western horn, a great 
planet of about equal lustre with itself.  The dark woods 
below were shrill with that noisy business of the birds' 
evening worship.  When I returned, after eight, the moon was 
near down; she seemed little brighter than before, but now 
that the cloud no longer played its part of a nocturnal sun, 
we could see that sight, so rare with us at home that it was 
counted a portent, so customary in the tropics, of the dark 
sphere with its little gilt band upon the belly.  The planet 
had been setting faster, and was now below the crescent.  
They were still of an equal brightness.

I could not resist trying to reproduce this in words, as a 
specimen of these incredibly beautiful and imposing meteors 
of the tropic sky that make so much of my pleasure here; 
though a ship's deck is the place to enjoy them.  O what 
AWFUL scenery, from a ship's deck, in the tropics!  People 
talk about the Alps, but the clouds of the trade wind are 
alone for sublimity.

Now to try and tell you what has been happening.  The state 
of these islands, and of Mataafa and Laupepa (Malietoa's 
AMBO) had been much on my mind.  I went to the priests and 
sent a message to Mataafa, at a time when it was supposed he 
was about to act.  He did not act, delaying in true native 
style, and I determined I should go to visit him.  I have 
been very good not to go sooner; to live within a few miles 
of a rebel camp, to be a novelist, to have all my family 
forcing me to go, and to refrain all these months, counts for 
virtue.  But hearing that several people had gone and the 
government done nothing to punish them, and having an errand 
there which was enough to justify myself in my own eyes, I 
half determined to go, and spoke of it with the half-caste 
priest.  And here (confound it) up came Laupepa and his 
guards to call on me; we kept him to lunch, and the old 
gentleman was very good and amiable.  He asked me why I had 
not been to see him?  I reminded him a law had been made, and 
told him I was not a small boy to go and ask leave of the 
consuls, and perhaps be refused.  He told me to pay no 
attention to the law but come when I would, and begged me to 
name a day to lunch.  The next day (I think it was) early in 
the morning, a man appeared; he had metal buttons like a 
policeman - but he was none of our Apia force; he was a rebel 
policeman, and had been all night coming round inland through 
the forest from Malie.  He brought a letter addressed
                
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