Robert Louis Stevenson

Vailima Letters
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CHAPTER XXXVII



FEB. 1894.


DEAR COLVIN, - By a reaction, when your letter is a little 
decent, mine is to be naked and unashamed.  We have been much 
exercised.  No one can prophesy here, of course, and the 
balance still hangs trembling, but I THINK it will go for 
peace.

The mail was very late this time; hence the paltryness of 
this note.  When it came and I had read it, I retired with 
THE EBB TIDE and read it all before I slept.  I did not dream 
it was near as good; I am afraid I think it excellent.  A 
little indecision about Attwater, not much.  It gives me 
great hope, as I see I CAN work in that constipated, mosaic 
manner, which is what I have to do just now with WEIR OF 
HERMISTON.

We have given a ball; I send you a paper describing the 
event.  We have two guests in the house, Captain-Count 
Wurmbrand and Monsieur Albert de Lautreppe.  Lautreppe is 
awfully nice - a quiet, gentlemanly fellow, GONFLE DE REVES, 
as he describes himself - once a sculptor in the atelier of 
Henry Crosse, he knows something of art, and is really a 
resource to me.

Letter from Meredith very kind.  Have you seen no more of 
Graham?

What about my grandfather?  The family history will grow to 
be quite a chapter.

I suppose I am growing sensitive; perhaps, by living among 
barbarians, I expect more civility.  Look at this from the 
author of a very interesting and laudatory critique.  He 
gives quite a false description of something of mine, and 
talks about my 'insolence.' Frankly, I supposed 'insolence' 
to be a tapua word.  I do not use it to a gentleman, I would 
not write it of a gentleman: I may be wrong, but I believe we 
did not write it of a gentleman in old days, and in my view 
he (clever fellow as he is) wants to be kicked for applying 
it to me.  By writing a novel - even a bad one - I do not 
make myself a criminal for anybody to insult.  This may amuse 
you.  But either there is a change in journalism, too gradual 
for you to remark it on the spot, or there is a change in me.  
I cannot bear these phrases; I long to resent them.  My 
forbears, the tenant farmers of the Mains, would not have 
suffered such expressions unless it had been from Cauldwell, 
or Rowallan, or maybe Auchendrane.  My Family Pride bristles.  
I am like the negro, 'I just heard last night' who my great, 
great, great, great grandfather was. - Ever yours,

R. L. S.



CHAPTER XXXVIII



MARCH 1894.


MY DEAR COLVIN, - This is the very day the mail goes, and I 
have as yet written you nothing.  But it was just as well - 
as it was all about my 'blacks and chocolates,' and what of 
it had relation to whites you will read some of in the TIMES.  
It means, as you will see, that I have at one blow quarrelled 
with all the officials of Samoa, the Foreign Office, and I 
suppose her Majesty the Queen with milk and honey blest.  But 
you'll see in the TIMES.  I am very well indeed, but just 
about dead and mighty glad the mail is near here, and I can 
just give up all hope of contending with my letters, and lie 
down for the rest of the day.  These TIMES letters are not 
easy to write.  And I dare say the Consuls say, 'Why, then, 
does he write them?'

I had miserable luck with ST. IVES; being already half-way 
through it, a book I had ordered six months ago arrives at 
last, and I have to change the first half of it from top to 
bottom!  How could I have dreamed the French prisoners were 
watched over like a female charity school, kept in a 
grotesque livery, and shaved twice a week?  And I had made 
all my points on the idea that they were unshaved and clothed 
anyhow.  However, this last is better business; if only the 
book had come when I ordered it!  A PROPOS, many of the books 
you announce don't come as a matter of fact.  When they are 
of any value, it is best to register them.  Your letter, 
alas! is not here; I sent it down to the cottage, with all my 
mail, for Fanny; on Sunday night a boy comes up with a 
lantern and a note from Fanny, to say the woods are full of 
Atuas and I must bring a horse down that instant, as the 
posts are established beyond her on the road, and she does 
not want to have the fight going on between us.  Impossible 
to get a horse; so I started in the dark on foot, with a 
revolver, and my spurs on my bare feet, leaving directions 
that the boy should mount after me with the horse.  Try such 
an experience on Our Road once, and do it, if you please, 
after you have been down town from nine o'clock till six, on 
board the ship-of-war lunching, teaching Sunday School (I 
actually do) and making necessary visits; and the Saturday 
before, having sat all day from half past six to half-past 
four, scriving at my TIMES letter.  About half-way up, just 
in fact at 'point' of the outposts, I met Fanny coming up.  
Then all night long I was being wakened with scares that 
really should be looked into, though I KNEW there was nothing 
in them and no bottom to the whole story; and the drums and 
shouts and cries from Tanugamanono and the town keeping up an 
all night corybantic chorus in the moonlight - the moon rose 
late - and the search-light of the war-ship in the harbour 
making a jewel of brightness as it lit up the bay of Apia in 
the distance.  And then next morning, about eight o'clock, a 
drum coming out of the woods and a party of patrols who had 
been in the woods on our left front (which is our true rear) 
coming up to the house, and meeting there another party who 
had been in the woods on our right { front / rear } which is 
Vaea Mountain, and 43 of them being entertained to ava and 
biscuits on the verandah, and marching off at last in single 
file for Apia.  Briefly, it is not much wonder if your letter 
and my whole mail was left at the cottage, and I have no 
means of seeing or answering particulars.

The whole thing was nothing but a bottomless scare; it was 
OBVIOUSLY so; you couldn't make a child believe it was 
anything else, but it has made the Consuls sit up.  My own 
private scares were really abominably annoying; as for 
instance after I had got to sleep for the ninth time perhaps 
- and that was no easy matter either, for I had a crick in my 
neck so agonising that I had to sleep sitting up - I heard 
noises as of a man being murdered in the boys' house.  To be 
sure, said I, this is nothing again, but if a man's head was 
being taken, the noises would be the same!  So I had to get 
up, stifle my cries of agony from the crick, get my revolver, 
and creep out stealthily to the boys' house.  And there were 
two of them sitting up, keeping watch of their own accord 
like good boys, and whiling the time over a game of Sweepi 
(Cascino - the whist of our islanders) - and one of them was 
our champion idiot, Misifolo, and I suppose he was holding 
bad cards, and losing all the time - and these noises were 
his humorous protests against Fortune!

Well, excuse this excursion into my 'blacks and chocolates.'  
It is the last.  You will have heard from Lysaght how I 
failed to write last mail.  The said Lysaght seems to me a 
very nice fellow.  We were only sorry he could not stay with 
us longer.  Austin came back from school last week, which 
made a great time for the Amanuensis, you may be sure.  Then 
on Saturday, the CURACOA came in - same commission, with all 
our old friends; and on Sunday, as already mentioned, Austin 
and I went down to service and had lunch afterwards in the 
wardroom.  The officers were awfully nice to Austin; they are 
the most amiable ship in the world; and after lunch we had a 
paper handed round on which we were to guess, and sign our 
guess, of the number of leaves on the pine-apple; I never saw 
this game before, but it seems it is much practised in the 
Queen's Navee.  When all have betted, one of the party begins 
to strip the pine-apple head, and the person whose guess is 
furthest out has to pay for the sherry.  My equanimity was 
disturbed by shouts of THE AMERICAN COMMODORE, and I found 
that Austin had entered and lost about a bottle of sherry!  
He turned with great composure and addressed me.  'I am 
afraid I must look to you, Uncle Louis.'  The Sunday School 
racket is only an experiment which I took up at the request 
of the late American Land Commissioner; I am trying it for a 
month, and if I do as ill as I believe, and the boys find it 
only half as tedious as I do, I think it will end in a month.  
I have CARTE BLANCHE, and say what I like; but does any 
single soul understand me?

Fanny is on the whole very much better.  Lloyd has been under 
the weather, and goes for a month to the South Island of New 
Zealand for some skating, save the mark!  I get all the 
skating I want among officials.

Dear Colvin, please remember that my life passes among my 
'blacks or chocolates.'  If I were to do as you propose, in a 
bit of a tiff, it would cut you off entirely from my life.  
You must try to exercise a trifle of imagination, and put 
yourself, perhaps with an effort, into some sort of sympathy 
with these people, or how am I to write to you?  I think you 
are truly a little too Cockney with me. - Ever yours,

ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON.



CHAPTER XXXIX



VAILIMA, MAY 18TH, 1894.


MY DEAR COLVIN, - Your proposals for the Edinburgh edition 
are entirely to my mind.  About the AMATEUR EMIGRANT, it 
shall go to you by this mail well slashed.  If you like to 
slash some more on your own account, I give you permission.  
'Tis not a great work; but since it goes to make up the two 
first volumes as proposed, I presume it has not been written 
in vain. - MISCELLANIES.  I see with some alarm the proposal 
to print JUVENILIA; does it not seem to you taking myself a 
little too much as Grandfather William?  I am certainly not 
so young as I once was - a lady took occasion to remind me of 
the fact no later agone than last night.  'Why don't you 
leave that to the young men, Mr. Stevenson?' said she - but 
when I remember that I felt indignant at even John Ruskin 
when he did something of the kind I really feel myself blush 
from head to heel.  If you want to make up the first volume, 
there are a good many works which I took the trouble to 
prepare for publication and which have never been 
republished.  In addition to ROADS and DANCING CHILDREN, 
referred to by you, there is an Autumn effect in the 
PORTFOLIO, and a paper on FONTAINEBLEAU - FOREST NOTES is the 
name of it - in CORNHILL.  I have no objection to any of 
these being edited, say with a scythe, and reproduced.  But I 
heartily abominate and reject the idea of reprinting the 
PENTLAND RISING.  For God's sake let me get buried first.

TALES AND FANTASIES.  Vols. I. and II. have my hearty 
approval.  But I think III. and IV. had better be crammed 
into one as you suggest.  I will reprint none of the stories 
mentioned.  They are below the mark.  Well, I dare say the 
beastly BODY-SNATCHER has merit, and I am unjust to it from 
my recollections of the PALL MALL.  But the other two won't 
do.  For vols. V. and VI., now changed into IV. and V., I 
propose the common title of SOUTH SEA YARNS.  There!  These 
are all my differences of opinion.  I agree with every detail 
of your arrangement, and, as you see, my objections have 
turned principally on the question of hawking unripe fruit.  
I daresay it is all pretty green, but that is no reason for 
us to fill the barrow with trash.  Think of having a new set 
of type cast, paper especially made, etc., in order to set up 
rubbish that is not fit for the SATURDAY SCOTSMAN.  It would 
be the climax of shame.

I am sending you a lot of verses, which had best, I think, be 
called UNDERWOODS Book III., but in what order are they to 
go?  Also, I am going on every day a little, till I get sick 
of it, with the attempt to get the EMIGRANT compressed into 
life; I know I can - or you can after me - do it.  It is only 
a question of time and prayer and ink, and should leave 
something, no, not good, but not all bad - a very genuine 
appreciation of these folks.  You are to remember besides 
there is that paper of mine on Bunyan in THE MAGAZINE OF ART.  
O, and then there's another thing in SEELEY called some 
spewsome name, I cannot recall it.

Well - come, here goes for JUVENILIA.  DANCING INFANTS, 
ROADS, AN AUTUMN EFFECT, FOREST NOTES (but this should come 
at the end of them, as it's really rather riper), the t'other 
thing from SEELEY, and I'll tell you, you may put in my 
letter to the Church of Scotland - it's not written amiss, 
and I daresay the PHILOSOPHY OF UMBRELLAS might go in, but 
there I stick - and remember THAT was a collaboration with 
James Walter Ferrier.  O, and there was a little skit called 
the CHARITY BAZAAR, which you might see; I don't think it 
would do.  Now, I do not think there are two other words that 
should be printed. - By the way, there is an article of mine 
called THE DAY AFTER TO-MORROW in the CONTEMPORARY which you 
might find room for somewhere; it is no' bad.

Very busy with all these affairs and some native ones also.



CHAPTER XL



VAILIMA, June 18th, 94.


MY DEAR COLVIN, - You are to please understand that my last 
letter is withdrawn unconditionally.  You and Baxter are 
having all the trouble of this Edition, and I simply put 
myself in your hands for you to do what you like with me, and 
I am sure that will be the best, at any rate.  Hence you are 
to conceive me withdrawing all objections to your printing 
anything you please.  After all it is a sort of family 
affair.  About the Miscellany Section, both plans seem to me 
quite good.  Toss up.  I think the OLD GARDENER has to stay 
where I put him last.  It would not do to separate John and 
Robert.

In short, I am only sorry I ever uttered a word about the 
edition, and leave you to be the judge.  I have had a vile 
cold which has prostrated me for more than a fortnight, and 
even now tears me nightly with spasmodic coughs; but it has 
been a great victory.  I have never borne a cold with so 
little hurt; wait till the clouds blow by, before you begin 
to boast!  I have had no fever; and though I've been very 
unhappy, it is nigh over, I think.  Of course, ST. IVES has 
paid the penalty.  I must not let you be disappointed in ST. 
I.  It is a mere tissue of adventures; the central figure not 
very well or very sharply drawn; no philosophy, no destiny, 
to it; some of the happenings very good in themselves, I 
believe, but none of them BILDENDE, none of them 
constructive, except in so far perhaps as they make up a kind 
of sham picture of the time, all in italics and all out of 
drawing.  Here and there, I think, it is well written; and 
here and there it's not.  Some of the episodic characters are 
amusing, I do believe; others not, I suppose.  However, they 
are the best of the thing such as it is.  If it has a merit 
to it, I should say it was a sort of deliberation and swing 
to the style, which seems to me to suit the mail-coaches and 
post-chaises with which it sounds all through.  'Tis my most 
prosaic book.

I called on the two German ships now in port, and we are 
quite friendly with them, and intensely friendly of course 
with our own CURACOAS.  But it is other guess work on the 
beach.  Some one has employed, or subsidised, one of the 
local editors to attack me once a week.  He is pretty 
scurrilous and pretty false.  The first effect of the perusal 
of the weekly Beast is to make me angry; the second is a kind 
of deep, golden content and glory, when I seem to say to 
people: 'See! this is my position - I am a plain man dwelling 
in the bush in a house, and behold they have to get up this 
kind of truck against me - and I have so much influence that 
they are obliged to write a weekly article to say I have 
none.'

By this time you must have seen Lysaght and forgiven me the 
letter that came not at all.  He was really so nice a fellow 
- he had so much to tell me of Meredith - and the time was so 
short - that I gave up the intervening days between mails 
entirely to entertain him.

We go on pretty nicely.  Fanny, Belle, and I have had two 
months alone, and it has been very pleasant.  But by to-
morrow or next day noon, we shall see the whole clan 
assembled again about Vailima table, which will be pleasant 
too; seven persons in all, and the Babel of voices will be 
heard again in the big hall so long empty and silent.  Good-
bye.  Love to all.  Time to close. - Yours ever,

R. L. S.



CHAPTER XLI



JULY, 1894.


MY DEAR COLVIN, - I have to thank you this time for a very 
good letter, and will announce for the future, though I 
cannot now begin to put in practice, good intentions for our 
correspondence.  I will try to return to the old system and 
write from time to time during the month; but truly you did 
not much encourage me to continue!  However, that is all by-
past.  I do not know that there is much in your letter that 
calls for answer.  Your questions about ST. IVES were 
practically answered in my last; so were your wails about the 
edition, AMATEUR EMIGRANT, etc.  By the end of the year ST. 
I. will be practically finished, whatever it be worth, and 
that I know not.  When shall I receive proofs of the MAGNUM 
OPUS? or shall I receive them at all?

The return of the Amanuensis feebly lightens my heart.  You 
can see the heavy weather I was making of it with my unaided 
pen.  The last month has been particularly cheery largely 
owing to the presence of our good friends the CURACOAS.  She 
is really a model ship, charming officers and charming 
seamen.  They gave a ball last month, which was very rackety 
and joyous and naval. . . .

On the following day, about one o'clock, three horsemen might 
have been observed approaching Vailima, who gradually 
resolved themselves into two petty officers and a native 
guide.  Drawing himself up and saluting, the spokesman (a 
corporal of Marines) addressed me thus.  'Me and my shipmates 
inwites Mr. and Mrs. Stevens, Mrs. Strong, Mr. Austin, and 
Mr. Balfour to a ball to be given to-night in the self-same 
'all.'  It was of course impossible to refuse, though I 
contented myself with putting in a very brief appearance.  
One glance was sufficient; the ball went off like a rocket 
from the start.  I had only time to watch Belle careering 
around with a gallant bluejacket of exactly her own height - 
the standard of the British navy - an excellent dancer and 
conspicuously full of small-talk - and to hear a remark from 
a beach-comber, 'It's a nice sight this some way, to see the 
officers dancing like this with the men, but I tell you, sir, 
these are the men that'll fight together!'

I tell you, Colvin, the acquaintance of the men - and boys - 
makes me feel patriotic.  Eeles in particular is a man whom I 
respect.  I am half in a mind to give him a letter of 
introduction to you when he goes home.  In case you feel 
inclined to make a little of him, give him a dinner, ask 
Henry James to come to meet him, etc. - you might let me 
know.  I don't know that he would show his best, but he is a 
remarkably fine fellow, in every department of life.

We have other visitors in port.  A Count Festetics de Solna, 
an Austrian officer, a very pleasant, simple, boyish 
creature, with his young wife, daughter of an American 
millionaire; he is a friend of our own Captain Wurmbrand, and 
it is a great pity Wurmbrand is away.

Glad you saw and liked Lysaght.  He has left in our house a 
most cheerful and pleasing memory, as a good, pleasant, brisk 
fellow with good health and brains, and who enjoys himself 
and makes other people happy.  I am glad he gave you a good 
report of our surroundings and way of life; but I knew he 
would, for I believe he had a glorious time - and gave one.

I am on fair terms with the two Treaty officials, though all 
such intimacies are precarious; with the consuls, I need not 
say, my position is deplorable.  The President (Herr Emil 
Schmidt) is a rather dreamy man, whom I like.  Lloyd, Graham 
and I go to breakfast with him to-morrow; the next day the 
whole party of us lunch on the CURACOA and go in the evening 
to a BIERABEND at Dr. Funk's.  We are getting up a paper-
chase for the following week with some of the young German 
clerks, and have in view a sort of child's party for grown-up 
persons with kissing games, etc., here at Vailima.  Such is 
the gay scene in which we move.  Now I have done something, 
though not as much as I wanted, to give you an idea of how we 
are getting on, and I am keenly conscious that there are 
other letters to do before the mail goes. - Yours ever,

R. L. STEVENSON.



CHAPTER XLII



AUG. 7TH


MY DEAR COLVIN, - This is to inform you, sir, that on Sunday 
last (and this is Tuesday) I attained my ideal here, and we 
had a paper chase in Vailele Plantation, about 15 miles, I 
take it, from us; and it was all that could be wished.  It is 
really better fun than following the hounds, since you have 
to be your own hound, and a precious bad hound I was, 
following every false scent on the whole course to the bitter 
end; but I came in 3rd at the last on my little Jack, who 
stuck to it gallantly, and awoke the praises of some 
discriminating persons.  (5 + 7 + 2.5 = 14.5 miles; yes, that 
is the count.)  We had quite the old sensations of 
exhilaration, discovery, an appeal to a savage instinct; and 
I felt myself about 17 again, a pleasant experience.  
However, it was on the Sabbath Day, and I am now a pariah 
among the English, as if I needed any increment of 
unpopularity.  I must not go again; it gives so much 
unnecessary tribulation to poor people, and, sure, we don't 
want to make tribulation.  I have been forbidden to work, and 
have been instead doing my two or three hours in the 
plantation every morning.  I only wish somebody would pay me 
10 pounds a day for taking care of cacao, and I could leave 
literature to others.  Certainly, if I have plenty of 
exercise, and no work, I feel much better; but there is Biles 
the butcher! him we have always with us.

I do not much like novels, I begin to think, but I am 
enjoying exceedingly Orme's HISTORY OF HINDOSTAN, a lovely 
book in its way, in large quarto, with a quantity of maps, 
and written in a very lively and solid eighteenth century 
way, never picturesque except by accident and from a kind of 
conviction, and a fine sense of order.  No historian I have 
ever read is so minute; yet he never gives you a word about 
the people; his interest is entirely limited in the 
concatenation of events, into which he goes with a lucid, 
almost superhuman, and wholly ghostly gusto.  'By the ghost 
of a mathematician' the book might be announced.  A very 
brave, honest book.

Your letter to hand.

Fact is, I don't like the picter.  O, it's a good picture, 
but if you ASK me, you know, I believe, stoutly believe, that 
mankind, including you, are going mad, I am not in the midst 
with the other frenzy dancers, so I don't catch it wholly; 
and when you show me a thing - and ask me, don't you know - 
Well, well!  Glad to get so good an account of the AMATEUR 
EMIGRANT.  Talking of which, I am strong for making a volume 
out of selections from the South Sea letters; I read over 
again the King of Apemama, and it is good in spite of your 
teeth, and a real curiosity, a thing that can never be seen 
again, and the group is annexed and Tembinoka dead.  I 
wonder, couldn't you send out to me the FIRST five Butaritari 
letters and the Low Archipelago ones (both of which I have 
lost or mislaid) and I can chop out a perfectly fair volume 
of what I wish to be preserved.  It can keep for the last of 
the series.

TRAVELS AND EXCURSIONS, vol. II.  Should it not include a 
paper on S. F. from the MAG. OF ART?  The A. E., the New 
Pacific capital, the Old ditto.  SILVER. SQUAT.  This would 
give all my works on the States; and though it ain't very 
good, it's not so very bad.  TRAVELS AND EXCURSIONS, vol.  
III., to be these resuscitated letters - MISCELLANIES, vol. 
II. - COMME VOUS VOUDREZ, CHER MONSIEUR!


MONDAY, Aug. 13TH


I have a sudden call to go up the coast and must hurry up 
with my information.  There has suddenly come to our naval 
commanders the need of action, they're away up the coast 
bombarding the Atua rebels.  All morning on Saturday the 
sound of the bombardment of Lotuanu'u kept us uneasy.  To-day 
again the big guns have been sounding further along the 
coast.

To-morrow morning early I am off up the coast myself.  
Therefore you must allow me to break off here without further 
ceremony. - Yours ever,

ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON.



CHAPTER XLIII



VAILIMA, 1894.


MY DEAR COLVIN, - This must be a very measly letter.  I have 
been trying hard to get along with ST. IVES.  I should now 
lay it aside for a year and I daresay I should make something 
of it after all.  Instead of that, I have to kick against the 
pricks, and break myself, and spoil the book, if there were 
anything to spoil, which I am far from saying.  I'm as sick 
of the thing as ever any one can be; it's a rudderless hulk; 
it's a pagoda, and you can just feel - or I can feel - that 
it might have been a pleasant story, if it had been only 
blessed at baptism.

Our politics have gone on fairly well, but the result is 
still doubtful.


SEPT. 10TH.


I know I have something else to say to you, but unfortunately 
I awoke this morning with collywobbles, and had to take a 
small dose of laudanum with the usual consequences of dry 
throat, intoxicated legs, partial madness and total 
imbecility; and for the life of me I cannot remember what it 
is.  I have likewise mislaid your letter amongst the 
accumulations on my table, not that there was anything in it.  
Altogether I am in a poor state.  I forgot to tell Baxter 
that the dummy had turned up and is a fine, personable-
looking volume and very good reading.  Please communicate 
this to him.

I have just remembered an incident that I really must not let 
pass.  You have heard a great deal more than you wanted about 
our political prisoners.  Well, one day, about a fortnight 
ago, the last of them was set free - Old Poe, whom I think I 
must have mentioned to you, the father-in-law of my cook, was 
one that I had had a great deal of trouble with.  I had taken 
the doctor to see him, got him out on sick leave, and when he 
was put back again gave bail for him.  I must not forget that 
my wife ran away with him out of the prison on the doctor's 
orders and with the complicity of our friend the gaoler, who 
really and truly got the sack for the exploit.  As soon as he 
was finally liberated, Poe called a meeting of his fellow-
prisoners.  All Sunday they were debating what they were to 
do, and on Monday morning I got an obscure hint from Talolo 
that I must expect visitors during the day who were coming to 
consult me.  These consultations I am now very well used to, 
and seeing first, that I generally don't know what to advise, 
and second that they sometimes don't take my advice - though 
in some notable cases they have taken it, generally to my own 
wonder with pretty good results - I am not very fond of these 
calls.  They minister to a sense of dignity, but not peace of 
mind, and consume interminable time always in the morning 
too, when I can't afford it.  However, this was to be a new 
sort of consultation.  Up came Poe and some eight other 
chiefs, squatted in a big circle around the old dining-room 
floor, now the smoking-room.  And the family, being 
represented by Lloyd, Graham, Belle, Austin and myself, 
proceeded to exchange the necessary courtesies.  Then their 
talking man began.  He said that they had been in prison, 
that I had always taken an interest in them, that they had 
now been set at liberty without condition, whereas some of 
the other chiefs who had been liberated before them were 
still under bond to work upon the roads, and that this had 
set them considering what they might do to testify their 
gratitude.  They had therefore agreed to work upon my road as 
a free gift.  They went on to explain that it was only to be 
on my road, on the branch that joins my house with the public 
way.

Now I was very much gratified at this compliment, although 
(to one used to natives) it seemed rather a hollow one.  It 
meant only that I should have to lay out a good deal of money 
on tools and food and to give wages under the guise of 
presents to some workmen who were most of them old and in 
ill-health.  Conceive how much I was surprised and touched 
when I heard the whole scheme explained to me.  They were to 
return to their provinces, and collect their families; some 
of the young men were to live in Apia with a boat, and ply up 
and down the coast to A'ana and A'tua (our own Tuamasaga 
being quite drained of resources) in order to supply the 
working squad with food.  Tools they did ask for, but it was 
especially mentioned that I was to make no presents.  In 
short, the whole of this little 'presentation' to me had been 
planned with a good deal more consideration than goes usually 
with a native campaign.


(I sat on the opposite side of the circle to the talking man.  
His face was quite calm and high-bred as he went through the 
usual Samoan expressions of politeness and compliment, but 
when he came on to the object of their visit, on their love 
and gratitude to Tusitala, how his name was always in their 
prayers, and his goodness to them when they had no other 
friend, was their most cherished memory, he warmed up to 
real, burning, genuine feeling.  I had never seen the Samoan 
mask of reserve laid aside before, and it touched me more 
than anything else.  A.M.)


This morning as ever was, bright and early up came the whole 
gang of them, a lot of sturdy, common-looking lads they 
seemed to be for the most part, and fell to on my new road.  
Old Poe was in the highest of good spirits, and looked better 
in health than he has done any time in two years, being 
positively rejuvenated by the success of his scheme.  He 
jested as he served out the new tools, and I am sorry to say 
damned the Government up hill and down dale, probably with a 
view to show off his position as a friend of the family 
before his work-boys.  Now, whether or not their impulse will 
last them through the road does not matter to me one hair.  
It is the fact that they have attempted it, that they have 
volunteered and are now really trying to execute a thing that 
was never before heard of in Samoa.  Think of it!  It is 
road-making - the most fruitful cause (after taxes) of all 
rebellions in Samoa, a thing to which they could not be wiled 
with money nor driven by punishment.  It does give me a sense 
of having done something in Samoa after all.

Now there's one long story for you about 'my blacks.' - Yours 
ever,

ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON.



CHAPTER XLIV



VAILIMA, SAMOA,
OCT. 6TH, 1894.


MY DEAR COLVIN, - We have had quite an interesting month and 
mostly in consideration of that road which I think I told you 
was about to be made.  It was made without a hitch, though I 
confess I was considerably surprised.  When they got through, 
I wrote a speech to them, sent it down to a Missionary to be 
translated, and invited the lot to a feast.  I thought a good 
deal of this feast.  The occasion was really interesting.  I 
wanted to pitch it in hot.  And I wished to have as many 
influential witnesses present as possible.  Well, as it drew 
towards the day I had nothing but refusals.  Everybody 
supposed it was to be a political occasion, that I had made a 
hive of rebels up here, and was going to push for new 
hostilities.

The Amanuensis has been ill, and after the above trial 
petered out.  I must return to my own, lone Waverley.  The 
captain refused, telling me why; and at last I had to beat up 
for people almost with prayers.  However, I got a good lot, 
as you will see by the accompanying newspaper report.  The 
road contained this inscription, drawn up by the chiefs 
themselves:


'THE ROAD OF GRATITUDE.'


'Considering the great love of Tusitala in his loving care of 
us in our distress in the prison, we have therefore prepared 
a splendid gift.  It shall never be muddy, it shall endure 
for ever, this road that we have dug.'  This the newspaper 
reporter could not give, not knowing any Samoan.  The same 
reason explains his references to Seumanutafa's speech, which 
was not long and WAS important, for it was a speech of 
courtesy and forgiveness to his former enemies.  It was very 
much applauded.  Secondly, it was not Poe, it was Mataafa 
(don't confuse with Mataafa) who spoke for the prisoners.  
Otherwise it is extremely correct.

I beg your pardon for so much upon my aboriginals.  Even you 
must sympathise with me in this unheard-of compliment, and my 
having been able to deliver so severe a sermon with 
acceptance.  It remains a nice point of conscience what I 
should wish done in the matter.  I think this meeting, its 
immediate results, and the terms of what I said to them, 
desirable to be known.  It will do a little justice to me, 
who have not had too much justice done me.  At the same time, 
to send this report to the papers is truly an act of self-
advertisement, and I dislike the thought.  Query, in a man 
who has been so much calumniated, is that not justifiable?  I 
do not know; be my judge.  Mankind is too complicated for me; 
even myself.  Do I wish to advertise?  I think I do, God help 
me!  I have had hard times here, as every man must have who 
mixes up with public business; and I bemoan myself, knowing 
that all I have done has been in the interest of peace and 
good government; and having once delivered my mind, I would 
like it, I think, to be made public.  But the other part of 
me REGIMBS.

I know I am at a climacteric for all men who live by their 
wits, so I do not despair.  But the truth is I am pretty 
nearly useless at literature, and I will ask you to spare ST. 
IVES when it goes to you; it is a sort of COUNT ROBERT OF 
PARIS.  But I hope rather a DOMBEY AND SON, to be succeeded 
by OUR MUTUAL FRIEND and GREAT EXPECTATIONS and A TALE OF TWO 
CITIES.  No toil has been spared over the ungrateful canvas; 
and it WILL NOT come together, and I must live, and my 
family.  Were it not for my health, which made it impossible, 
I could not find it in my heart to forgive myself that I did 
not stick to an honest, common-place trade when I was young, 
which might have now supported me during these ill years.  
But do not suppose me to be down in anything else; only, for 
the nonce, my skill deserts me, such as it is, or was.  It 
was a very little dose of inspiration, and a pretty little 
trick of style, long lost, improved by the most heroic 
industry.  So far, I have managed to please the journalists.  
But I am a fictitious article and have long known it.  I am 
read by journalists, by my fellow-novelists, and by boys; 
with these, INCIPIT ET EXPLICIT my vogue.  Good thing anyway! 
for it seems to have sold the Edition.  And I look forward 
confidently to an aftermath; I do not think my health can be 
so hugely improved, without some subsequent improvement in my 
brains.  Though, of course, there is the possibility that 
literature is a morbid secretion, and abhors health!  I do 
not think it is possible to have fewer illusions than I.  I 
sometimes wish I had more.  They are amusing.  But I cannot 
take myself seriously as an artist; the limitations are so 
obvious.  I did take myself seriously as a workman of old, 
but my practice has fallen off.  I am now an idler and 
cumberer of the ground; it may be excused to me perhaps by 
twenty years of industry and ill-health, which have taken the 
cream off the milk.

As I was writing this last sentence, I heard the strident 
rain drawing near across the forest, and by the time I was 
come to the word 'cream' it burst upon my roof, and has since 
redoubled, and roared upon it.  A very welcome change.  All 
smells of the good wet earth, sweetly, with a kind of 
Highland touch; the crystal rods of the shower, as I look up, 
have drawn their criss-cross over everything; and a gentle 
and very welcome coolness comes up around me in little 
draughts, blessed draughts, not chilling, only equalising the 
temperature.  Now the rain is off in this spot, but I hear it 
roaring still in the nigh neighbourhood - and that moment, I 
was driven from the verandah by random rain drops, spitting 
at me through the Japanese blinds.  These are not tears with 
which the page is spotted!  Now the windows stream, the roof 
reverberates.  It is good; it answers something which is in 
my heart; I know not what; old memories of the wet moorland 
belike.

Well, it has blown by again, and I am in my place once more, 
with an accompaniment of perpetual dripping on the verandah - 
and very much inclined for a chat.  The exact subject I do 
not know!  It will be bitter at least, and that is strange, 
for my attitude is essentially NOT bitter, but I have come 
into these days when a man sees above all the seamy side, and 
I have dwelt some time in a small place where he has an 
opportunity of reading little motives that he would miss in 
the great world, and indeed, to-day, I am almost ready to 
call the world an error.  Because?  Because I have not 
drugged myself with successful work, and there are all kinds 
of trifles buzzing in my ear, unfriendly trifles, from the 
least to the - well, to the pretty big.  All these that touch 
me are Pretty Big; and yet none touch me in the least, if 
rightly looked at, except the one eternal burthen to go on 
making an income.  If I could find a place where I could lie 
down and give up for (say) two years, and allow the sainted 
public to support me, if it were a lunatic asylum, wouldn't I 
go, just!  But we can't have both extremes at once, worse 
luck!  I should like to put my savings into a proprietarian 
investment, and retire in the meanwhile into a communistic 
retreat, which is double-dealing.  But you men with salaries 
don't know how a family weighs on a fellow's mind.

I hear the article in next week's HERALD is to be a great 
affair, and all the officials who came to me the other day 
are to be attacked!  This is the unpleasant side of being 
(without a salary) in public life; I will leave anyone to 
judge if my speech was well intended, and calculated to do 
good.  It was even daring - I assure you one of the chiefs 
looked like a fiend at my description of Samoan warfare.  
Your warning was not needed; we are all determined to KEEP 
THE PEACE and to HOLD OUR PEACE.  I know, my dear fellow, how 
remote all this sounds!  Kindly pardon your friend.  I have 
my life to live here; these interests are for me immediate; 
and if I do not write of them, I might as soon not write at 
all.  There is the difficulty in a distant correspondence.  
It is perhaps easy for me to enter into and understand your 
interests; I own it is difficult for you; but you must just 
wade through them for friendship's sake, and try to find 
tolerable what is vital for your friend.  I cannot forbear 
challenging you to it, as to intellectual lists.  It is the 
proof of intelligence, the proof of not being a barbarian, to 
be able to enter into something outside of oneself, something 
that does not touch one's next neighbour in the city omnibus.

Good-bye, my lord.  May your race continue and you flourish - 
Yours ever,

TUSITALA.
                
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